Trip 145 - Knaresborough, Yorkshire Dales, Cumbria and Grandchild
- Clive Cumbers
- 1 day ago
- 29 min read
Wednesday 4th June (Day 1)
A bit of a trek today. Over three hours to Stockport where we are looking at seat covers and then a ninety plus mile journey to Otley. We left at 0910 and arrived at Welkin Mill at 1230. Here we discussed options to recover our two captan chairs. It will tale a couple of weeks to make the covers and we have to first agree the fabric. We agreed we would get a text with options and then decide. Next off we went to Wharfemeadows Car Park in Otley. We parked up and walked into town for a look around. A nice town with nice views of surrounding hills, and over fifteen pubs! We ended up in The Black Bull which the roundheads drunk dry before the battle of Marston Moor (which they won) back in 1644. Another pint in a Victorian pub, The Black Horse. We then walked back for a curry before settling in for the night
Thursday 5th June (Day 2)So the ‘drought’ has now officially ended! Constant rain during the night with not really any good weather forecast today. We had an easy forty minute drive to the Knaresborough Rugby Club which is our base for the next three nights. A good chat to reacquaint with some old friendships. A light lunch and then we walked into Knaresborough, never having been here before. That said we soon realised we actually had been here in 2018. We had a pleasant stroll around in light rain and sunshine. We eventually sought refuge in ‘Blind Jacks’. Blind Jack is a 17th century character. He was blinded at six years due to smallpox. That said his life was amazing. At 15 years he played the fiddle in a local pub as the 71 year old played too slow for the dancing. Later he joined the army and fought at Culloden. Eventually he owned a coach company. The roads were very bad so he decided to improve the roads. In the end he built over 180 miles of road, some of which are still in use. Back at the site we all gathered for a drinking session. Our meal was not until just before 2100.
Friday 6th June (Day 3)An early start as we were on a 1030 Harrogate walking tour, with a man named Harry. So we all met at 0900 and walked to the railway station for the fifteen minute journey to Harrogate. We arrived in Harrogate in good time for the tour and had some time to idle away. A shop had an ‘grand' opening with violinist and a cello player and two ballet dancers! After a while we et Harry and commenced the tour, which was a really good 100 minutes stroll around. When it finished our walking group went separate ways. We started off with lunch at a Turkish restaurant which was recommended by Harry the tour guide. It was an good meal, in fact excellent and good value. The rest of the day was interspersed with meeting up with others from our group at various bars until a return train at 1805. Back at the site we sat and chatted until around 2130. Bed was to followed.
Saturday 7th June (Day 4)Today the forecast was thunderstorms. After breakfast it was circulated that the cycle ride would be delayed by 30 minutes to allow the rain to stop. So 1100 saw fifteen hardy souls up for the ride to Ripley. A lovely ride, manly off road along the Nidd Valley and, in parts, by the River Nidd itself. Our destination was The Boars Head at Ripley. This was a poor choice, albeit we did not know that. It was the only pub in Ripley and there was nowhere for a large group toast drink and chart. On the plus side the shop over the road was really good for pies and pasties. On the return journey we stopped at The Gardeners Arms in Bilton. A much better stop, especially as the sun was now shining and there was a large garden. This is a Samuel Smith pub where all mobiles phones are banned. Originally it was cash only but has now relented with a card machine. After a while we cycled the short distance to Knaresborouh for a coffee overlooking the River Nidd before returning to the site for bingo, the raffle, and social intercourse. Sitting out was a challenge with the falling temperatures but by 2215 we were safely ensconced in our motorhome.
Sunday 8th June (Day 5)Our last day on the COGgers meet. By 1130 we were packed and said our, lengthy, goodbyes. Our first stop was at ASDA in Harrogate as on Friday Chris had picked up two tops she had ordered and they did not fit so we returned them. We had booked for The Forbidden Corner on Monday, who knows what it will be like, but others have said it is interesting. As such we had identified a Certified Site at Hill Top Farm, Leyburn about five miles away. We had a bit of trouble finding it but eventually did. It was just a field and we were the only people there. It afforded great views over the Yorkshire Dales. After lunch we went into the town and walked around. It had a steam railway line running through it. A look around the main town which was not overly great and then a pint in one of the five pubs. We sat outside but soon scuttled in as it started to rain, albeit lightly. We then opted for a drink in another and chose the wrong one. The Kings Arms was ‘interesting’. The locals were strange. A quick pint and then a walk back up the hill to the motorhome and cooking dinner. We sat around watching TV until bed.
Monday 9th June (Day 6)A cool morning and the ‘threat’ of some quite heavy rain. After breakfast a bit of tidying up before at 1120 we got on our bikes for a five mile cycle to ‘The Forbidden Corner’ at Coverham. You had to pre-book and midday was our time slot. The ride there was quite challenging with very steep hills. We arrived at 1155, locked up our bikes and entered the area. It is a quirky place with narrow tunnels (very); water shooting at you; ‘spooky’ other bits all in four acres of flowers and plants. While cool the weather was kind and so no rain. By about 1430 we decided to cycle the return journey which, for some reason felt easier. We stopped in the Black Swan in Leyburn for some refreshment and got back at the motorhome around 1600. It must be said we were quite stiff with aching joints. A lazy evening until bed.
Tuesday 10th June (Day 7)The wind and heavy rain through the night rocked us, especially as we were exposed on the top of the hill. Morning was a calmer, brighter, start. After breakfast and sorting out we left about 1000. A quick stop in Leyburn for a few food items. Having parked up quite legally and correctly an elderly gentleman claimed I was thoughtless as my vehicle made it difficult for him to reverse out due to poor vision. This despite the case the old bugger was off for a long walk with rucksack and walking poles. Sad. Then a short seven mile drive to Aysgarth where we parked up and walked to the three waterfalls, the Upper, Middle and Lower. This was followed by a three mile walk around the dales. It was hot walk in bright sunshine. Back at the visitor centre we had a coffee before moving off to Hawes. Again a short drive of less than ten miles. We parked up In Auction Mart Car Park. (£15 for 24 hours.) After lunch we walked into Hawes which is a lovely town. We paid a visit to the Wednesdale Cheese Creamery. The base of Wallace and Gromit land. A nice cheese tasting of the many cheeses and then a pint to wash it down. Next a return for a cooked meal and tv before bed.
Wednesday 11th June (Day 8)We awoke to the first really sunny warm day, blue skies the lot. After breakfast we had a six mile walk planned. By just before 1100 we set off. Our first destination was Hardraw Force (a waterfall). There was a charge to enter but it was an impressive waterfall and worth it. However, the walk we had planned took us out of the waterfall area at the north end and the waterfall area was totally enclosed so we needed a Plan B. It didn’t take too long to rearrange the route and we had a very pleasant walk up towards the hill tops and along the ridge and down again. In all, with the walk around the waterfalls, about seven miles. We got back knackered and sat out in the sunshine recovering. Another short circular walk into town for a last visit (other than a quick shop tomorrow) and then a ‘Big Boys’ for tea. A laze until bed.
Thursday 12th June (Day 9)
So today we are off. Before leaving we did the usual empty / fill regime and also popped into town for some shopping. This meant we left around 1100. One of the guides said very strongly NOT to approach the Tan Hill Inn from the B6270. We planned a route and, you have guessed it, we approached from the B6270. When we got to where we turned off the B6270 we stopped to decide whether to attempt it. While stopped we spoke to a delivery driver who had just gone a shortly up before us and returned. He informed us that if we could make the first two turns it would be easy. They were 160 degree turns on a very steep hill climb. Well we managed it with ease and the rest of the crossing of the moors was very pleasant. We arrived at about 1315, paid our £10 donation to the Air Ambulance, had a light lunch and then kitted up for a planned seven mile round walk. We were surprised that the paths were not stoney like most of the Pennine Way but squidgy, soft and wet. After abut a mile we decided to abandon the route, it was just to hard and challenging and walking boots, rather than shoes were needed. The option was walk back over the not very pleasant path or cut across to the roadway about 400m away. We opted for the second and, despite that being a good choice, was a very difficult walk. Having gained the road we walk back to Tan Hill Inn and then a short way along the Pennine Way in the opposite direction. After only about 1000m we decided to return as the wind was really strong. This forced us into the pub for a drink before we relaxed in the motorhome at about 1545. We went over to the the Inn for an 1830 meal. The meal was really good although the portions were a bit on the big side. It was like the UN in the Inn. Canada, France, Holland and many UK locations iwhere represented in just the area we were sitting. We chatted with three couples; one from the uk with a Solomon Island wife; a second here for a Reeth Marathon from near Winchester; the third were a brother and sister from Bury St Edmonds completing the 270 mile Pennine Way. At around 2000 an acoustic group arrived who were good. 2200 saw us back in the motorhome with bed soon after.
Friday 13th June (Day 10)A windy night followed by some calm and back to a windy morning. We left Tan Hill about 1000 for a short drive to Barnard Castle. We had booked in to Glen Lyon Camping just on the outskirts of town. It has mixed reviews but for one night we decided to chance it. It is a small family run site and we had a warm welcome and help to set up / connect. We sorted out the dodgy blind and had a good spring clean. After lunch we caught a bus for the mile plus trip into town. It is a small town with an old English Heritage Castle. As it is English Heritage it is a ruin. We walked down to the river and back up to the High Street. Deciding to go to Bowes Museum we set off. I then discovered it was £19.50 to enter so we aborted. A look in a fe shops (many of them ‘antique’ shops). Back down to the River Tees and a walk along it and then up through he woods, across the fields on a return leg by footpaths. We got back about 1530 after about four plus miles. It was still on the windy side but hot so we sat outside and chilled until the wind beat the sun for comfort and we put the chairs away and went in.
Saturday 14th June (Day 11)Some rain overnight but nowhere near what was forecast. (Dover was flooded!) After getting sorted a quick Lidl stop and then a drive to Richmond. This was not, originally, on our route but several people said it was a nice place worth a visit. We opted for a slight detour to avoid the old stone bridge linking Barnard Castle to the A66. The site owner said that was a good move. We parked up at a free car park attached the Old Racecourse. It was then a steep walk down into the town. It was a lovely old town with cobbles, alleys, a castle (a ruin), a river walk; a waterfall and much more. The star of the day was the Georgian Theatre built in 1788. This is the only unaltered Georgian Theatre in the country. £8 each gave us a sixty minute tour with a charming and knowledgeable ex-teacher. It was a real revelation. A walk the old railway station (now converted to shops) then along the river and back into town to try and find the Rugby Premiership Final on a tv. We managed to see the second half. A long stroll back up hill; a very strenuous walk. Then a chill out and a meal while we decided on tomorrows destination.
Sunday 15th June (Day 12)Some rain overnight but, again, light. A grey day in the morning with the promise that things may improve. By 1000 we were ready to depart. This was another destination not originally planned - Ribblehead Viaduct. It was about an hours drive and just under forty miles. The journey, for most of it, was very much Dèja Vu. This is because we returned to Leyburn (last there day 5) and onto Hawes (day 7). We briefly stopped in Hawes to empty the toilet. Leaving Hawes we took a new route but were stuck behind a slow motorhome and slam door also. We averaged less than 30mph on a 60mph road. Fortunately, it was only about ten miles until we arrived at The Station Inn, Ribblehead, Chapel Le Dale, North Yorkshire. We parked up with six or so other motorhomes and checked in. The stop is free but they hope you eat / drink in the Inn. Just across from us were two motorhomes each with a single male occupant. One was missing an arm and the other had amputated leg below the knee! Just amazing! The Ribblehead viaduct is 35m high and 400m long with over one million bricks to build it. The Midlands railway company wanted to share the lines from London to Scotland with the east or west railway line companies but they said no. As a result this route was planned. Realising they would lose money the other companies relented but Parliament would have non of it and so the South-North line up the spine of England was built with not only this viaduct but many tunnels, a real feat of engineering. Back to today, the weather was not good and the hills were lost in the clouds. We still decided to go for a walk but within less than half a mile the weather was not fun at all and the wind and rain set in. As a result we, reluctantly, returned to the pub. People were coming in dripping wet leaving puddles all over the place. After a pint we return to the motorhome until dinner in the pub. A good meal, if a bit overpriced. A pub in the middle of nowhere with no competition we presume it is to be expected. On both times in the pub we had a good chat with others. 2030 saw us back in Billiana to chill out and make plans tomorrow.
Monday 16th June (Day 13)So the day started with bright sunshine making Ribblehead viaduct look very different from yesterday. After getting sorted we were off to get LPG first and then get washing done as this was really important with only one pair of undies left! We found a launderette in Kendal where we could park beside it and got everything clean. This was after two alternatives campsites with washing machines that we could not go to as they were full. Half a mile up the road was a Camping and Caravan Club Temporary Holiday Site (£10 a night). I drove up and just overshot the turn. I stopped and looked in the mirrors (nothing there); checked the rear view camera (nothing there); started to reverse and a car horn sounded. I stopped immediately having just hit the car behind. Fortunately, no damage to the car and minor damage to our bike rack. A lucky escape. After lunch we walked in to Kendal and perused the shops. (I bought some walking boots - £180 reduced to £60!) We returned to the motorhome and sat in the sun until about 1900 (one of the warmest evenings since leaving home). Dinner followed and the achill evening saw us inside and bed.
Tuesday 17th June (Day 14)During the night it started to rain and this continued for the whole day. It varied between a ‘mizzle’ and moderate rain. At the same time our hone and where both Richards and Matt live it was sunny and 25 degrees or more. We just sat around in the motorhome for most of the morning but late morning ventured out to the nearby shopping area (Morrisons, Matalan. B&M, Air Ambulance charity shop and more). After lunch we decided enough was enough and walked into town to cover the historical walk; the castle and other special areas within the town. The castle was last occupied in 1483 and ninety years later was declared a ruin (it still is). The best you can say is it affords a good view of Kendal. The town itself has some mildly interesting g laces to see but no excitement to be had. We returned to the motorhome after a beer, watched tv and bed was about 2230.
Wednesday 18th June (Day 15)
Today the promise of better weather was in the offing and it seemed to be the case. We had decided on a ninety minute bus ride to Keswick and walked into town at 1000 for the bus. The bus left a ten minutes late at 1040. The driver clearly was not intending to make up any time and the journey took, in the end, two hours. That said it was a pleasant journey with nice views of the hills and lakes that we passed by. We had spoken to a couple about another very scenic bus ride but we arrived five minute after it left. Another left in two hours so we decided to have lunch and a walk around before getting on the later journey. 1430 saw us at the bus stop. However, Chris saw a printed sign stating that the two bus routes that are circular in opposite directions only went about a third of the way and then returned due to the road being closed by road works. To rub salt into the would today was the last day of three before things returned to normal. A bit dejected we returned into town and opted for a fifty minute boat trip around the Derwent. Then it was the 1630 return bus journey which actually did take ninety minutes. Again a return to the Old Fleece pub for a pint and chat with some other visitors. Back at the motorhome we had our evening meal, watched tv and again bed,
Thursday 19th June (Day 16)
What you wish for may sometimes be not what you want. We awoke to blue skies and a ‘promise’ of 26 degrees. We said goodbye to the Caravan Club Stewards; filled and emptied and drove the fifteen or so miles to Ambleside Football Club to stay a couple of nights. We were parked up by 1130 after a quick Morrisons visit. It was so hot we did not feel like lunch. After a coffee in town we caught a open top bus to Grasmere; about twenty minutes. This is a nice, very popular, village and a walk along the main street and then long to the lake followed. Hot, hot, hot! by just after 1610 we caught the bus back to Ambleside. Chris needed some stamps (the usual birthday cards etc). While waiting for her I saw a walk to Stockgyhll Force, a waterfall. It was only less than a mile or so and we decided we would walk it. It was nice but the actual waterfall was not as good as those we saw earlier on our trip. Then it was the same walk back but, oh no, Chris opted for an extended circular walk. An extra three miles but, it must be said, a nice walk if a bit challenging. Back in town a drink was desperately needed. A chat with a few other visitors and then back to the motorhome by 1930. (It was 32.9 degrees in the van.) We have no TV signal at all despite lots of lights up on the receiver. So we sat around until bedtime.
Friday 20th June (Day 17)
Today was meant to be another hot one - hotter than yesterday, allegedly. After breakfast we walked into town to catch the bus to Windermere. We have been there before but it was at that happy time before children! The buses here run very frequently and by about 1100 we were in Windermere itself. A quick visit to the Tourist Information saw us on an hours walk up the highest hill here Orrest Head (784 feet). A slow walk but relatively easy. The views at the top were brilliant. A return down and another tourist Info suggestion was a walk along a footpath and then along the lake itself. (Windermere is the biggest freshwater lake in England; ten miles long and a mile wide at is widest and 220 feet deep.) The walk returned us to the main road for short while to the museum where again the tourist people said some good food was to be had. They were correct; Korean chicken wings for me and Marie Rose prawn sandwich for Chris. A further walk saw us in Bowness-on-Windermere. Here we sat sat a while people watching - a real enjoyment for us. Not knowing the area we walked along the lakeside and arrived at a car / people ferry which has been in operation for over 500 years - originally it was owned uusually with horse and carriages!. For less than three pounds it took us to the other side of Windermere. Over the ‘dark side’ we had a refreshing drink and then walked up to a viewpoint that in the 1800’s was ‘must do’ for the visitors. We then discovered ‘Ash’s Ferrys’. At £5 a person and delivering us in the main area back on the Bowness side seemed a bargain. It may have cost £3 extra each but saved two miles extra walking; we only just made it, literally by the skin of our teeth. Back in the main town we waited for the bus to take us home. A drink in the Royal Oak in Ambleside (Green King) was much needed before walking back to the motorhome which was still 33 degrees inside. We sat outside with a small libation and after a while, around 1930, we heard the sound of a brass band. Abandoning our drinks we sought out the sound. About 400m away was a forty piece brass band playing great music. For a reason we could not fathom it was a remembrance type performance for those who died in the war. It mattered not it was exceptionally good. Back at the motorhome we sat out a bit longer until almost 2200 and then went in with bed following soon.
Saturday 21st June (Day 18)
Off today to a pre-paid for site, The Dalesbridge at Austwick,North Yorkshire about forty miles away. After breakfast we got sorted and left around 1015. Our first stop was for diesel at a nearby garage that was the cheapest by far. We soon realised it was in Windermere itself and I commented yesterday we would have trouble filling up there. So we abandoned that and went for stop 2 on the agenda which was a National Trust place called Sizergh. The same family has lived in this place for almost 900 years (they did have to escape to France for a while having backed the Cavaliers). They had documented evident relating to the building and land going back to the mid 1100. That said we arrived a bit later than planned as I put one digit wrong on the second half of the postcode! We still arrived about 1115. Upon arriving I noticed our National Trust cards expired at the end of May 2025! That said we played the innocent and got in. First a stroll around the gardens and a coffee waiting until the midday opening of the house itself. We then spent an interesting, not riveting, forty minutes before returning to the motorhome and left for the twenty plus mile drive to tonights stop. (The Dalesbridge at Austwick.) Having settled in we had lunch and planned a circular walk but it started raining. Typical that out first stop on a site for a few days when we could sit / eat out and it is wet. After it stopped we walked into Austwick and a drink at a pub, The Game Cock. This was not only a pub but a bakery and patisserie run by a french couple. We decided as the weather had cleared up to go for the circular walk I had planned. This meany we had no water with us, were not wearing the best of shoes and I had a large umbrella also. We looked a strange couple. The walk was extremely pleasant with quite a bit of climbing. We returned to the site for a much needed beer. The rain re-appeared, not just rain but heavy rain, and we scurried back to the motorhome. Thunder and lightening rumbled and flashed but soon after a short while it all quietened down. A late tea and then rest.
Sunday 22nd June (Day 19)
We had no rush this morning although we had to be off site by 1100. We filled and emptied as usual and then drove just twenty miles to Skipton, which our neighbour Duncan had recommend we visit. We parked with no problem and walked from the castle car park into town. A gentle stroll around the shops and then a long walk along the Leeds and Liverpool Canal. Back in town we eventually found the waterwheel which is still in use and powers twenty properties. The original wheel you can get into motion by pulling a handle; the reverse to stop. On our return trip to the motorhome we visited the church and the heavens opened, an hour earlier than predicted. Had I not led us up a wrong route before to see the the water wheel we would have been safely back in the motorhome. As it was we got back quite wet. We left the car park and filled with diesel before the final ten mile drive to The Old Stone Trough pub. It is £15 a night with 24 access to toilets and fresh water AND two people eat as much as you want for breakfast; a bargain indeed. We had booked in to have an evening meal at 1900. About forty minutes before that it rained absolute stair-rods, so much so that outside our door was a small swimming pool. Braving this we went and had a great meal. Returning for bed at 2230.
Monday 23rd June (Day 20)
Liverpool bound. First though, breakfast. The Old Stone Trough gives you a free breakfast for two on a ‘help yourself basis’; sausage, bacon, egg, baked beans, tomatoes, fruit juice, bread / toast and cereal. Having had sufficient (or too much) we returned to the motorhome to decide on which of our current options we would try first for overnight stops. Otterspool Park south of Liverpool along the Promenade was our first option. We turned off the motorway option on the satnav as we were not in a rush and thought this may find us an interesting place to stop / explore. Oswaldtwistle Mill came up and we followed the brown sign. Disappointment is an understatement as it was just a mill made in to a shopping centre. So off we went. Chris then found Ruffold Old Hall - a National Trust site. We spent a pleasant couple of hours on a garden and house tour before setting off for Otterspool (the car park). Arriving we found there were several options and soon we settled on the most southerly of them. The wind is gusting 35 to 40mph so facing the River Mersey it was a bit windy / rocky. We sat in the main seats overlooking the Mersey unit around 1700 when we decided to walk along the promenade. Three miles out and the same back before settling in the motorhome for the evening.
Tuesday 24th June (Day 21)
Birth day! After breakfast we got sorted and caught a bus into Liverpool, getting off at the bus station. We found the Tourist Information and got a map and a chat on where to go / what to see. We started by going to where The Cavern was, a street full of Beatle pubs / shops / museum and, indeed, if you think it, it would be there somewhere. Next a walk to the Metropolitan Cathedral (Catholic) built in 1967. This is the one that looks like a space craft. Then the Anglican Cathedral (much older). Allegedly the front still has bullet holes from WWII, although we couldn’t see any. It was getting near to lunchtime so we walked down to the Albert Dock and sat looking over the River Mersey having egg mayo sandwiches. We needed a coffee and went to M&S to their café. Unbelievably the whole store had only one toilet, a disabled one for men, ladies, disabled and baby changing. Unbelievable. While we needed to go we went to John Lewis and it was ‘luxury’ there. While in JL we got a call from Matt that they were in the waiting room for the ‘C-Section’ procedure. As it was not expected to be long we stayed in JL so mum could buy some gender appropriate clothing. Time dragged. Eventually we were told mum and baby were well but NOT the gender as this was a secret to be kept until we visited. We walked the forty minutes towards the hospital waiting for the ‘come on up’ call. The call didn’t come, so we sat in a pub, the Peter Kavanagh’s’, a quirky pub to say the least. Liv was having blood pressure issues and sickness so a visit int he immediate future was unlikely so we caught a bus back into Liverpool and had a Burger King to keep us going. Visiting hours stopped at 2000. We decided to hover nearby again and caught a bus back to the hospital arriving at 1910. Matt knew we were there and came to see us. Liv was still in the Recovery Ward and we would not get to see her or the baby today. A bit dejected we caught a bus back into town to catch a second bus back to the motorhome. Catching a different bus number, as the bus driver said he went to where we wanted, was what occurred. That said it was a limited stopping bus and he went three stops beyond where we needed! This meant an extra mile plus to get back to the motorhome. As we arrived the rain started - good timing. 22225 steps and 10.2 miles today!
Wednesday 25th June (Day 22)
Today it is meet the new family member! After breakfast we caught the bus and went to John Lewis to get some gender appropriate baby wear; a card; and a Peter Rabbit comforter. We then went to see the Liver Building the iconic waterfront building. This was followed by going to The Cavern where in the 1960 the Beatles performed and since then so many great artists. For £5 a person we entered and walked down the many flights of stairs to the cavern where we sat for about ninety minutes of music from a very good guitarist / singer. Leaving around 1445 we went to Boots for emergency baby supplies for Gia, as Liv was not going home today. Arriving at 1600 we went and saw Liv, Matt and baby Gia Louisa Lucy-Cumbers. By about 1700 Liv was knackered and we left and walked into the centre of town to have a meal at Mowgli. After the meal we returned to the motorhome to relax. We had been joined by two other motorhomes and, as usual, a gaggle of local youths and their cars. We turned in around 2300.
Thursday 26th June (Day 23)
During the night I got up and emptied the grey waste into the bushes. We are not wanted to help Matt, Liv and Gia leave the hospital today. After breakfast we scanned the S4S app to try and find somewhere to go and empty / fill. We left a few ansaphone messages but no one got back to us, very frustrating. Eventually a pub got back to us, The Butchers Arms at Nercwys, Flintshire in Wales. First a stop en-route for LPG at a very good price. Next a couple of items from a big Tesco store. It was then a short eleven mile drive to the pub. It was in the middle of nowhere. We emptied our loo, and part filled with water. We only part filled as the water flow was so slow that I will finish filling tomorrow. I had researched and found a circular walk that started form near to the pub so off we went. To actually join the route we had to follow a footpath that was shown on the OS map. However, it did not show we had to leap trees that had come down; duck under the same; duck under prickly bushes making a tunnel over the path and generally negotiate an assault course. We joined the OS route but the challenges still continued, footpaths full of stinging nettles, six gates or so to clamber over as the styles were not accessible (or not there); the footpath not even there; baby bulls ‘following’ us across a field; the list goes on. Five miles the distance walked. It was, without doubt, the most challenging walk we have done for a long time. When we got back, after about two hours, we then tended to any rashes before going into the pub for a meal. The meal was a real home cooked affair and large. The only drawback was no good beers or ciders! After a drink and the meal instead of staying we returned to the motorhome and watched tv until bedtime.
Friday 27th June (Day 24)
We planned to go to Chester today but, as you can with a motorhome, we changed our mind and opted for Rhyl. So, after breakfast we drove abut thirty miles to Tan-y-Bryn Farm, Rhyl, Denbighshire. This is a CMC CL. We arrived around 1130 after an Aldi stop for a couple of items. The wind is very strong but the sun is shining. Having set up we opted for a walk into Rhyl, about two miles. We strolled along the sea front and then into the main shopping area. Reports have said it is tired and, to a degree, that may be true but it is just the same as many other seaside towns. We walked back and sat outside, sheltered from the wind by the motorhome. That said with 30mph gusts we still felt the force. It was not cold at all but we went inside around 1800 as the wind might blow the glasses over! TV for the evening until bed.
Saturday 28th June (Day 25)
So gusts of over 50mph during the night. We wanted to go to a site in Llanrwst. The two preferred sites were full but we found space on a site called Bodnant Caravan Park, an independent camp site. As we approached, having left a bright sunny but windy camp site, we lost the mountains due to misty rain. The site was well kept and lovely. That said we needed some washing done and the washing machine they had ….. was not there. So we drove the half mile into town to a launderette and while trying to compete a tight 170 degree turn a transit van also tried. He caught a parked car. Anyway washing complete in less than half an hour and back to the site. Despite weather apps saying sunshine, the weather gods had not read them, and it was light mizzle. Planning for another stop tomorrow is proving challenging. That, coupled with the mizzle going, we do not know when the washing will get dried it is all causing consternation (First world issues I know). Eventually, we managed to put the washing out and walked into the town of Llanrwst with the view that if it rains it can’t be worse. Llanrwst is not much to shout about. A bridge; a castle; a rugby club; a high street with nothing really buzzing. After a stroll around we went to the Eagle Hotel for a drink. A very grand building, in its time, but in need of some tlc. Then a stroll back and we found almost all of the washing was dry, and the rest dried in the following hour. A late cooked tea and sit and watch Glastonbury on the TV until bed.
Sunday 29th June (Day 26)
We had booked a site just a few miles away. So what to do? We first visited Bodnant Gardens which is a National Trust site (so free). This was a nice surprise as it is a big garden with many varied plants and trees, some over a hundred years old or more. Waterfalls, water mills, follies indeed we spent a few hours just wandering. Next we went to Conwy, famous for its castle. The marina where the website said we could park was not accessible, so of we drove and found a street parking place nearby. A short walk into town and through the city walls down to the riverside. Here we found in Wales a pub named The Liverpool, with twenty or so musicians playing Irish songs and sea shanties. Harps, Mandolins, Recorders, Flutes, Guitars, beat boxes and much more. Next on the list was the smallest house in Britain. We did not go in but it had no running water or sanitation and is 72” wide and 122” tall. The last occupant was a 6’ 2” fisherman! A walk along the river brought us to the castle and it was impressive enough to get us to fork out money to go in. A very interesting visit. It started to rain, albeit very light, so we made our way back to the motorhome. It was then a three mile trip to the CL, Llandudno Caravan Park. We soon arrived and it was a well laid out and, relatively, new site. Now a yellow thing had appeared into sky and we sat out for about two and a half hours enjoying the heat. The site owner paid a visit and we had a pleasant chat and then retired inside for a meal and to watch Glastonbury.
Monday 30th June (Day 27)
Today we are off to Llandudno by bus. We realised that our bus passes were not going to work and we were going to have to pay! Not too bad, £8.60 for two for a ‘Rover’ type ticket. Twenty minutes saw us in Llandudno main high street. A walk along and visit to the Tourist Information. Along to the front and a walk out the longest pier in Wales. It was probably as long as many English south coast piers and the Southend pier made it look short. That said, it was pleasant pier with the usual funfair, pub, amusements and café. Next, a walk uphill to the cable car and a mile trip on it to the top of the Great Orme (700 feet above sea level). This afforded great views to Anglesea and even Conwy castle was in view. On the Great Orme there was a slate mine that could be visited but the description didn’t ‘tick our boxes’ so we did not do it. Apart from the cable car their is a tramway also as an option. Back down we had a light meal and a cup of tea. A further walk around and an attempt to get some meat from a butchers. Bloody Google maps took us to within 50m of it but the railway line preventing us getting to it with a long walk around! Strolling back into the main town we decided to get a bus back and just missed one. A forty minute wait so a Doom Bar called. Back at the site about 1640 and a sit / dive in the the hot sun (!) Again as it cooled we had a cooked tea before bed.
Tuesday 1st July (Day 28)
We are not on Plan A but, probably, Plan E or F. So after breakfast and the usual empty / fill regime we were off to the Llangollen Aqueduct. It is actually not at Llangollen but at Pontcysylite. We parked up in the large car park and walked to the aqueduct; 120 feet above the river and 1400 feet long it was, at the time of being built, the highest and longest structure of it type anywhere. We walked over it and along the canal for a while before returning, with a brief lunch stop sitting by the canal. We decided to drive to Llangollen itself as the write up seemed good. We had issues finding somewhere to park until we find the Pavilion car park about 1000m out of town. We walked in and had a tea / coffee and planned our options with the help of a Tourist Information map. A walk first to Plas Nerwyn, a house from the 17thc that two women lived in. They were obsessed with wood carvings. So much so that the whole house is covered in them. For example the porch was supported by uprights from a four poster bed. There were bits from churches, tables and other items of furnityure. Indeed if it was sculptured wood then they used it. There was not one part of a wall not covered. We then walked back into town and decided to walk up to the Horseshoe falls about to miles along the canal. After three quarters of an hour we arrived and, well, it was a disappointment. The vegetation was too dense to clearly see the falls which were not really that good to begin with. Back to the motorhome and we left for our night stop, The Roodee Car Park in Chester. Parking up just after 1800 and we walked into town for a stroll, a beer before a return to salmon for tea.
Wednesday 2nd July (Day 29)
Today we are off to see Gia. Eventually, we were asked to arrive at 1400. So no rush to leave as it is a ninety minute journey. So we had a good breakfast and then walked the city walls of Chester with a tea stop half way around. We left around 1220 for Mawdesley. When we arrive I put a mask on as I had a cough that we think is hay fever related. With all the traumas Liv and Matt have had already with Gia they were unhappy for us to hold or be near Gia. something I expected but Chris was really upset. (She didn’t show it until we left some two hours later.) We had selected The Boat Inn at Cheddleton for a stop. As we drove down the hill to it I had déja vu. We drove here in our original motorhome when it had a fuel pump leak. For some reason we didn’t stay here (think they were closed) but went along the canal to The Hollybush. This time, being open we stayed. We parked up and soon were sorted and over for a pint and a meal and what a home cooked meal. We both had chicken, ham and leek pie with chips. It also came with cauliflower cheese, carrots, peas and broccoli. Both meals were for £17! We had a pint but were so stuffed we had no room for any more so we returned to the motorhome to sit and chill before bed. Home tomorrow!
Thursday 3rd July (Day 30 )
Home today and a good run.
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