Sunday 5th May (Day 1)
So we are off! It seems to have taken an age to arrive but then the last few days have rushed. We left Richard and Su’s house at about 1100. We had been there to grandog sit Herbie. It was only a ninety minute journey to ‘The Woolpack’ in Smeeth near Ashford for our overnight stop. First though a stop at Ashford Outlet Centre for some sandals, a shop at Asda for a few bits and then some diesel. We arrived at the pub at 13.30 and found one other motorhome there. The welcome from the owner was most profuse and warm. Fifteen minutes later Chris, Graham and Maisie arrived. While they sorted their motorhome out, we went for a walk with Maisie. Arriving back we sat in the pub for a drink before having Sunday lunch. We had a pleasant, if not exceptional, meal. After about three hours we returned to the motorhome (there were four motorhomes now present). We had a small snooze. While dozing we got a text that Chris and co were off for a walk and would we join them (we didn’t). Waking up we found a second text that there were in the Anchor pub around the corner. We left to join them but they had left by then and returned by another route so we missed them. Not to be deterred we returned all together to the Anchor for a drink. The evening was then spent playing ‘Bananagrams’ and ‘Mexican Train Game’. Around 2300 we all turned in for the night.
The Woolpack PH near Smeeth, Ashford. A quiet village stop only 15 minutes from the Eurotunnel. A level car park and a most welcoming host, staff and locals. Plans in hand to have a dedicated MH area with EHU. This will be chargeable but refundable at the bar. Heartedly recommend this as a pre channel crossing stop.
Monday 6th May (Day 2)
We were up and ready to leave at 08.00 (our Eurotunnel train was 10.20). Chris and Graham left to top up with diesel. Arriving at Eurotunnel we got an earlier train (09.18). While waiting the others arrived and had the same train. We drove to the ‘holding’ area but drove straight through and onto the train. We have never seen it so quiet. This meant that by 11.00 local time we were on the roads in France. Chris and Graham went to Cité Europe for supplies but we opted to drive away from there, stopping at a big L’Eclerc about thirty miles down the road. The weather was overcast with the odd shower. Eventually we got some sunshine but it didn’t really last too long. We had a snack in a lay-by and selected an aire which the others were content with. This meant that by just after 16.15 we arrived at an aire in Harcourt which was free. It was a lovely spot with a boule pitch, football pitch and a short walk into the town. Being Monday all shops had closed. It was a nice walk though into town and then back to the motorhome. On the return it just started to rain lightly. We cooked the evening meal and then went out to play boule in a glorious warm sunset evening. In this Boules English Championship the first leg went to the Northern pair; the scores being 13-3; 11-13; 13-11. Apart from the pitiful first game it was a ‘nip-and-tuck’ event. While playing two more motorhomes arrived, making five in all. The usual happened in that there is lots of space and the two arrivals parked close to each other and also to Chris and Graham. A few, polite, words were had and the nearest one of them moved. After the boules we returned to our respective motorhomes for a quiet night.
Harcourt Aire: It is next to a small sports area on the edge of the village. Hard standing and flat / level. Quite a pretty area. EHU and fresh water was €3 bought from the boulanger (which was closed). Black and grey is free but no water to rinse the cassette. All in all, especially as it is free, it is a good stop and thank you to the village..
Tuesday 7th May (Day 3)
After a good nights sleep, despite the early morning chorus with a cuckoo, I went for a walk into the town for bread. After shower, sort ourselves out and breakfast we were ready for the off by around 09.45. While the others were not ready we opted to walk and see the Château Harcourt. Unfortunately it is only open Tuesday to Saturday from 1400 to 1800. Back to Billina and we moved off. No destination set just drive and then decide. We had a nice lunch by a river where we had many times driven passed and said it looked a good stop. Onwards. We had agreed that Chris and Graham wound choose tonights stop. On way we need diesel. The first stop a 24 hour garage did not accept three of our cards and eventually locked the pump down. Even a local could not resolve the issue so we left and filled up elsewhere. Eventually, Chris and Graham suggested an Aire at Vivvone. It was a bit further than we would have chosen but it mattered not. We arrived at 1715 after about a total of five plus hours driving - easy pleasant and enjoyable. Having arrived we found the four places taken but Graham had parked across two places so we sneaked in. We then went for a stroll and ended up at a bar, what a surprise. Here we had a couple of rounds. It worked out at £11.25 a pint! The bar keeper charged us for some people on the next table! A good laugh was had (?) and eventually they paid us the owed amount (five drinks worth) meaning the drinks were around £4 a pint. We returned and cooked a meal with salad (we intend to eat a lot more salad this trip for the calories). We stayed in our own motorhomes and about 2200 went to bed.
Aire at Vivonne: It is a car park, flat and level with facilities to empty / fill although at a small cost. The town itself offers a good choice for eating and drinking and a Super U for a bigger shop and fuel. Although only four spaces allocated, in the morning there were fifteen units parked up.
Wednesday 8th May (Day 4)
Well yesterday we were concerned that we were the fifth to arrive with four spaces. This morning there were thirteen motorhomes. We has a pow-wow and decided on an ASCI site at Moliets-Plage a camp called Saint Martin. It was a four hour drive, or would have been if not there was a major collision both sides of Bordeaux. we took a scenic route to miss most of it stoping around 1400 for lunch. Arriving at Camping Saint Martin was an education. One small road in with twenty plus people wishing to register and then people wishing to exit for a trip ‘somewhere’. Lots of too-ing and fro-ing to accommodate people. Eventually, after half an hour, we were booked in and settled. It was around 20 degrees and sunny. So we sat and had a drink before a late evening meal. We then went for a stroll around to ‘suss’ out the area finishing off at a bar where we had a beer which was quite red in colour. A bit sweet but ok, except Graham thought it was pants. It had cooled down considerably and so we retired to our respective vans before bed.
Camping Saint Martin: An ACSI site right next to the sea and a long sandy beach. The entry is along a busy pedestrian area and the parking to get admitted can be difficult due to lack od space. A busy site and very big with chalets and tourers. The sort of site that in years gone by we would have chosen for holidays with our children as there was so much for young people. Despite its size it had a ‘feel’ of a smaller more intimate site.
Thursday 9th May (Day 5)
Today was a ‘rest day’. After breakfast we went for a walk along the beach to give Maisie a good run. The beach stretches for miles and is sandy. We watched the surf schools and others in the sea. All were wearing wetsuits and a paddle by us showed why …….. it was COLD. On the return we had a drink in a bar, and still Graham didn’t find a larger he liked. A light lunch followed by a laze in the sunshine (24°C). We had a discussion about the next stop as we did not want go to Portugal as Chris is not well - while not ‘ill’ she has for sometime now felt out of sorts and is in some discomfort and is awaiting a scan. So with an impending call for a scan etc we do not want to be more than few days from Calais. Later we had another try at a beer for Graham which met some measure of success. Then returning to our motorhomes and a lazy, sit and chat until around 1900 when we decided to sort food out. This was followed by the second leg of the Boules English Championship. Things are not looking good for the ‘Southerners’ as this was lost 13-7; 13-11, so two nil in legs. Dire times it would seem. Bed was around 2200. Spain tomorrow.
Friday 10th May (Day 6)
So about seventy miles to the next stop at San Sebastien in Spain. Despite that it is three hours unless we pay on the toll, which we did. Seventeen Euros saved ninety minutes. We arrived at the aire to find it was jam packed! At 1130. We consulted various apps and opted for Camping Orio at, surprisingly, Orio. A lovely ACSI site right by the harbour. However on entering to register we saw ‘No Dogs’. Back out we went and stopped in the shade under a flyover, which was an aire. We then opted for another ACSI site Camping Zumaia at, well, Zumaia. It was a strange site to approach as it was though an industrial estate and then up a very steep single tracked road with a sharp turn. Eventually we got booked in and it was a treasure of a site. After settling in and eating lunch we strolled down a pathway the 1.8km into town. A walk around with a pub stopped proved we were in Spain. Four pints of lagers €10 in France one drink was almost that! After a while we returned to the site, via looking at an aire at the Marina. We had opted for a meal in the camp site restaurant. The surroundings the restaurant were bland but the food looked ok. Wrong. While tasty it was barely hot. We returned to the motorhomes and sat out in the warmth playing Mexican Train Game until bed.
Camping Zamaia, Zamaia, Spain
The reviews are quite correct. Approaching through an industrial area (with a ramshackle free aire) was disconcerting. Then the final approach up a steep narrow road with a blind bend could be challenging for some. Booking in seemed to take an age but we got there. We then settled on a terraced pitch with fresh water and electrics nearby. Through the back gate is a pathway down to the town. This is a bit longer than by the way we came in but, in our opinion, nicer. We did eat at the restaurant and think we were unlucky as the food was not overly hot. Others around us seemed to be content.
Saturday 11th May (Day 7)
Up and breakfast got from the reception which was the best croissants so far this trip. We were away by 1000, although that was frustrated a bit by the slow reception staff. We then drove about 2km to the Port Marina aire. Yesterday there was only two motorhome parked here. Today as we arrived there were only spaces left for three. So we got parked and set off to the railway station to catch the 1100 train to San Sebastien, a thirty eight minute trip. The train was packed and stuffy. We arrived on time and walked too the promenade. A trip up the funicular was suggested. Well we got up and had some magnificent views but the queue was over sixty minutes. Well it is a weekend and there is a children’s funfair at the top. We returned to sea level and walked back along the promenade. By now it was 1430 and people (me) were hungry and thirsty. We stopped at a restaurant and had a nice meal. That said, had we known we were so close to the old Town and tapas bars we might have chosen a different place to eat. We walked the old town stopping in a square that was the bullring in times gone by. All the properties around had numbers above the windows which opened onto small balconies. These were the box numbers for watching the bull fight and musical events also. The Plaza had a buzz so we sat and soaked it up with a beer. As we did it chilled town quite considerably and the sky became red and looking like rain. We had just missed the 1650 train so the next was at 1750. We made our way back to the railway station with loud thunderclaps above us. At one point we had to shelter under a passageway as the rain became heavy. Eventually we were safely ensconced on the train and a pleasant return journey to Zamaia. Again as we alighted the rain started, albeit quite light. We made it back to the motorhomes before more heavy rain, lightening and thunder.
Port Marina, Zambia, Spain. This is a car park which has a height barrier but before this is room for probably ten motorhomes. It is flat and level and free. It felt safe. I would stop here again without any concern. Not sure whether it is every Saturday (and perhaps other days) but the Saturday we were there somewhere over the water was a night club and it was very noisy. Didn’t bother me but a light sleeper……….
Sunday 12th May (Day 8)
We have earmarked a stop that is just over twenty five miles at a place called Lekeitio. So after a really basic breakfast we left before the others as we needed diesel. Being a Sunday and out of the way we were not sure how easy this would be. The answer was so easy to was not true and at €1.60 per litre a great price (that said a few miles on it was €1.56). The drive was brilliant as we followed the coast road with hairpin bends and tight bends and view to savour and enjoy. Eventually we arrived and with baited breath hoped for two spaces. We followed in a McLoius mh with damage to both rear panels. As it drove in a VW was parked with its tailgate open. The McLoius hit it! So we had a ten minute wait while people discussed the incident. We eventually parked up with three or so spaces still spare which was enough for Chris and Graham when they arrived. We had a coffee and then followed the others into town. Lekeitio is a pretty town which was celebrating, I think, walkers on the Camino del Santiago which we have been following for many kilometres. We met up at a bar (a theme today for the Chris / Grahams). A drink and three tapas was less than €8 (or £6). We then went for a walk across the causeway to an islet called Garraitz. We climbed it leaving the others behind. Maisie somehow both fell into the water and then rolled into the sand causing her to be less than in favour. On our return Chris and Graham had ‘found’ another bar. Another drink and then a stroll around the town which is quite pretty. While there a small convoy of three white vans arrived sounding horns and making as much noise as possible. It appears a local team of ‘dragon boat’ racers had won some race and the applause and cheering was really loud. The culture here was clearly a drink / social one with many bars not just rammed but spilling into the streets also. Another Chris / Graham bar followed after we had tried a visit to the church (closed). Eventually around 1600 we returned to out ‘homes’. We cooked our main meals and then got together for some games.
Aire Lekeitio; A well sized aire with spaces for all at least fourteen motorhomes of plus 7m plus and others may also park in the ‘car park area’. Some small slope but not enough to really cause concern. An easy walk into the town which is very nice with lots of bars with great tapas to be had. Fresh water via a jeton from the Tourist Information - Closed Mondays. Next door a mini zoo and botanical garden to take up a bit of time and supply an interesting dawn chorus. All in all a good free stop where one night may not be enough.
Monday 13th May (Day 9)
A short walk for some bread - which was not the best! That said a French stick sausage start to the day was good. Chris has been waiting for a hospital appointment and we though we would be on our way home in the next few days, but ‘no’. An appointment for the 6th June. We changed our 20th June booking for £67.60 to the 4th. At least we can now plan a week or so over here. We did a few chores and walked into town around 1130, stopping at he botanical Gardens and mini Zoo next door. We saw the potential suspects for our unusual dawn chorus, Parrots, Ibis and/or peacocks are in the frame. The gardens are well kept and plants signposted. In the centre of there park is a day centre for the old and infirm; a nice setting. Into town for a beer and tapas. Then we exercised Maisie on the beach before a gentle 2km stroll to a light house (with a bar). Another drink then a stroll back……… to a bar! Next a quick shop for some essentials at a Eroski supermarket before returning to the motorhomes for a rest. We are planning a prompt start tomorrow and off to Palencia which has some good reports. However, sitting in the motorhome we had monsoon weather which started, as predicted, around 1900. The van rocked, we tried watching TV but could only hear it on sound volume 90. An unbelievable end to the day which continued on to the next as it was around 0230 that things settled down.
Tuesday 14th May (Day 10)
A cool start, much cooler than May in Spain should be. After breakfast we were off by around 0945. The first part was a slow journey over the mountains with hairpins and steep gradients. The journey encountered some steep climbs and descents with many hairpins bends and also quite heavy rain. Eventually by 1345 we arrived at Palencia at a free aire. Around 45 minutes later the others arrived. We then waked into the city for snack of tapas and a beer. Easy you would think except for ‘La Siesta’. Eventually we found a great place and had a good, so a late lunch. Chris and I then went to the cathedral which was reported to be fantastic. It was a good but many before this have been better. A bonus was that Tuesday the entrance was free. A Gothic, Romanesque church with lots of gold and silver; for us good, worth a visit but, a stated, seen much better. Back to our respective motorhomes, via a hyper Chinese shop where we found an item or two we could not live without. Then the other three played a game of Mexican Train Games while I ‘live chatted’ with our sim provider for the dongle as it was not working. I lost the will to live! After a while Graham needed to go back to his van to watch Man City .v. Spurs (supporting Spurs). Our plan for tomorrow is a short hop to Zamora.
Aire Municipal Palencia: A car park on the outskirts of Palenica. There are 23 well marked out places all level and flat. It is only ten minute walk into the city which has wide boulevards and an pleasant feel, The cathedral is pleasant but we have seen much better. (Visit on an Tuesday and entry is free.) Full services available at no cost, although the water tap need a rubber connection or you will need a watering can. All in all a great stop.
Wednesday 15th May (Day 11)
We left the aire by just before 1000 after filling water by watering can, and emptying the other two items. It is a relatively short, two hour, run to the aire at Zamora. We stopped just on the outskirts of Zamora at a ‘Hiper Froiz’ (supermarket). We expected it to be large and were extremely disappointed! Still we managed to get the basics even if the paté we bought was a red colour. Then to the aire. Well disappointment again. It had room for three 7.5m motorhomes and another five or six smaller ones. When we arrived there was about fourteen parked on the aire, on the nearby roads, double parked in the aire; chaos. It was not for us. We knew another aire nearby and drove to that. It was much better next to a large park and still a short walk into town. Having parked up we had lunch and soon Masie and co arrived. We left them eating their lunch and walked into town. The weather is still cool at around (13 degrees). We strolled around a lovely city all cobbles and old buildings. It had many churches that, if the blurb is to be believed, are all worth a visit. They are all closed as are most of the shops. When we learn this siesta thing? We bumped into Masie and Co and had a drink. It then started to rain so we scurried back to the aire and settled down for a while. Later,on after dinner, we returned that evening. Again it was too late and all the shops and churches were closed. We really must get our timings right.
Aire Zamora Riverside, Zamora: This is supposed to be an aire. Well it has a borne for water etc. It also has a pleasant view over the river to the city. It has three designated parking spaces for ‘large’ motorhome (probably up to 8m). Then there is about six car spaces for smaller campers. When we arrived there were about ten parked all over the place. Even the small car spots had 7+m motorhomes parked at an angle, missing trees and overhanging at the back We were not overly impressed.
Aire Parque de Juegos, Zamora: This is adjacent to a large park within a five to ten minute walk of the city. It has a lot of space for motorhomes in small hard standing bays. A good stop for Zamora and miles better than the other one in this city.
Thursday 16th May (Day 12)
After a good nights sleep we were off by about 1000. First stop some diesel at €1.57/l (about £1.36/l) Then it was a pleasant drive across the Spanish countryside the thirty five mile to the Portuguese border and then on. Some steep ups and downs and many hairpin bends also. The countryside was stunning with yellow bracken, mauve heather and lots of blood red poppies to assist our vista. Eventually, after about two hours we arrived at an aire at Alfândega de Fé. It was right opposite the bomberios (fire station) All services were free including EHU. We sat and had a light lunch soon after Maisie and Co arrived. We strolled up to look at the local Mercadona and a restaurant. The first good the second not so. Shortly after we took a walk into the town. Nothing much at all, indeed the highlight according to the towns information sign was a small clock tower! The exercise was good though as the town had very steep roads. Back down at ‘normal’ level we had a beer until it started to rain lightly. Until recently taking a dog into a restaurant was illegal. While that has been changed it is at the owners discretion. We had identified somewhere to eat but on enquiring is was ‘no dogs’. Back at the motorhomes we sat in our own home and read with on and off showers.
Aire at Alfânga de Fé, Portugal: This is a dedicated aire for seven motorhomes with good spacing between each one. Probably 8 - 8.5m would be the maximum. The borne is totally free including fresh water and as an added bonus there are five EHU points - first come first served. Well done to the local community for this facility. It is opposite the local fire station and so it is, to my mind, totally safe. The town itself is another matter in that apart from a few bars there is not much to see / do. It is true that there are one or two walking tracks but if it was not for the facilities there must be an alternative stop to try.
Friday 17th May (Day 13)
A visit to the local market before leaving with a short trip to Cinfǎes. The route planned was along the Douro river. The first part took us to it and then a really lovely drive alongside the river. Then we had the next part. It was a really badly maintained road with steep climbs and descents and narrow roads. On the part of the route the main road was closed resulting in an alternative along a narrow road. (We stopped here for milk and Chris bought five litres of wine for €6. We stopped along the River Douro for lunch before eventually arriving at Parque de Campisimo de Mourihle. We arrived to a camp that needed some tlc. Having set up we waked to a nearby series of waterfalls. We then joined the others for drinks at a local bar where they ate. We returned for a curry. Sat and watched a video then bed.
Parque de Campismo de Mourihle; This is a new-ish camp site. It has good facilities but is in a poor location for any real touristy attractions. That said it does have a small children’s play area and a table tennis table. The shower / toilet block is clean and is well maintained but it takes a while for the hot water to come through. The nearby waterfalls are fairly nice and the the local restaurant again fine without setting things alight.
Saturday 18th May (Day 14)
A slow start as todays stop, pre-booked, state we cannot get on the pitch until 1400. So a shower etc (the shower took ages to get hot and could have been hotter when it did). Breakfast then a check of the tyres as at least one looked like it needed some air. As it turned out they all did. We left in the hope the roads would be nicer than the last part of yesterday’s drive. It was, albeit only marginally so. After about ten miles it started to improve significantly. We had been debating whether to use a washing machine at a supermarket or wait until the campsite. (As we had time to waste the former could have been a good option: bur t we decided against it.) We did stop for a small shop at a large Intermarché; again a bit disappointed with the choice on offer. Onwards and upwards!. We skirted Porto and had a kilometre queue on the A28 due to an accident / breakdown. Nearing the site, about 6km out, we were directed by the satnav onto a cobbled road. It was quite narrow in part and 20kph was more than enough or our teeth fillings would have been shaken out. We had to keep stopping to allow cars to pass. It was a monotonous, uncomfortable drive. We arrived at the camp site a bit early - Parque de Campismo Sol de Vila Chã. It is an ACSI camp site 200m from the beach. A pleasant welcome and by 1400 we were sitting at our table in the sunshine having lunch. The others soon appeared. By the time they did so we had a wash load going. Again showers / sunshine is the order of the day. The day was still very pleasant and we walked down to the beach for a drink and to soak up the rays. Returning to the site the restaurant opposite the site was open and we had found they allowed dogs in the outside area, which being covered and away from the seafront was warm. What a delight we had in store. Chris Stephens had squid and (something) with was apparently really good. Chris and Graham had hake and chips - again they said was brilliant. I had steak. It came with chips, spiced rice, black bean sauce and a salad with apples and strawberries. All of it was great and only about £13 a person. A toddle back to the site and eventually bed.
Parque de Campismo Sol de Vila Chã, Vila Chã: An ACSI site so it should be expected to be good and was. A warm welcome, quick check-in and shown to our pitch. A busy site with both static units and tourers. Cleaning the toilet block took place at 0915; normally a time of high demand and took 90 minutes. The restaurant across the road has great food and good value. For those with dogs they are allowed in the covered outside area. The downside is the long entry roads that are cobbled stones which shake your motorhome to bits!
Sunday 19th May (Day 15)
We woke up to totally blue skies - a first for this trip. After breakfast, which was a small ‘big boys’ which we ate late at around 1045, Chris and I got on our bikes for a ride along the coast. We went northwards and it was along a boardwalk by the dunes and the sea. We passed many people with rucksacks and shells on them. They were walking along one of the Camino de Santiago religious routes. In one place the boardwalk was being repaired and so a bit of cobbled road was negotiated and at one other part the boardwalk disappeared totally and it was soft sand which was a difficult push of the bikes. After four miles we stopped for a coffee and then cycled ‘home’. The sun was now doing its very best and so we went to the camp site bar to claim our free glass of port each. We sat in the sun putting the world to rights until we cooked a late evening meal and then more sitting and tv until around 2230.
Monday 20th May (Day 16)
Today we were planning to go to Porto. That said all four of us had both been there before and the draw to it was less attractive. So after a lazy breakfast we went for walk along the boardwalks. We stopped at a bar and had a nice meal on the return leg. The rest of the day was sunning ourselves and chatting. A really easy, pleasant relaxing day. The evening meal was a simple bread and cheese affair and we eventually went to bed around 2230.
Tuesday 21st May (Day 17)
During the night it rained both lightly and heavily. This continued in the morning when we got up. Making our decision not to put the tables and matts away last night look a bad option. Our next planned stop was Aveiro about sixty miles away. It is nicknamed the ‘Venice of Portugal’. We also needed a small bit of shopping. We found that there was two largish supermarkets just a short distance from the planned aire. Arriving at the aire it was full and the overspill area looked decidedly dodgy, with ramshackle tents old caravans and the like. We spoke to the others and agreed to do some shopping then decide where to go. Simple? No. The Mercadona and Contiente supermarkets would not fit us in. Parking around was also a bit off a challenge. Eventually we parked and it was agreed we would get our shopping and Masie and co would investigate an alternative aire that was nearby. We were soon on the way with the news their were five places, then two and by the time we arrived only one. So tight we could not open the habitation door properly. As we were settling in a man with a small trailer was leaving resulting in a much bigger space. So all was well. By 1345 we were walking into what looked like a lively city for a drink and snack. We found a bar in a side street and had sardines, squid and octopus, battered fish and some potato croquettes - alll cold but tasty. Next a boat ride as Aveiro is Portugal’s answer to Venice in a very small way. 45 minutes for €10 each seemed a bargain. After a gentle stroll around the streets in warm sunshine for an hour or so then we sat by part of the ‘canal’ at a bar. It was lovely being bathed in the sunshine and then a few degrees less when a cloud passed over. Overall still very nice. A cooked evening meal in the motorhome tonight and then some Sherlock Homes dvd time.
Area Aveiro, Aveiro: This is an aire with set aside spaces for a dozen or so motorhomes. we arrived around 1245 and it was full. Across the road is an overspill area. Dusty with potholes, people living in tents, old caravans and dogs laying around. It did not have a nice vibe and so we left.
Area Aveiro, Aveiro: This is almost a flat level tarmac car park under the A25 and the satnav can have a challenging time getting you to it. You can see it across the water but how to get to it? Well we managed it. We spoke to a police officer who said it was a perfectly safe and acceptable place for us to stop at overnight. There are spaces for around 24 I would think. Apart from the A25 it is by a busy road but at night the road noise is minimal, that said by 0600 it was quite loud, especially by 0730 when the men doing roadworks started. It is only a few minutes walk into the main tourist area so is ideal for that.
Wednesday 22nd May (Day 18)
A lot of rain through the night (again). The morning started overcast but during the day the clouds disappeared and the warmth returned. After breakfast, by 0945, we were off to Figueira da Foz about sixty miles distance. We had opted for tolls and had racked up €3 worth when we entered a ‘Via Verde’. We had no idea what that meant and we ignored the ‘take a ticket route’ as we had the electronic tag. The tag never registered but fortunately we exited at the next turn off to get LPG. Going through the ‘no cash’ lane nothing beeped and we appear to have not paid 80c. I only hope the cost of recovery of this will make it a non-starter for the Portuguese; time will tell. (As we had no ticket we had no option to do this.) After getting gas we took of the ‘tolls’ option and soon arrived at our destination. We arrived at the aire which was very large and got sorted and then the four of us walked into town for a coffee. As with almost all towns and cities in Portugal the place was deserted. Coffee was followed by a further meander through the streets, up to the remains of a castle back to the promenade and then a beer. By 1540 we were back at the aire having sorted, we hope, somewhere to eat this evening. Around 1745 we walked over to an Irish pub called ‘Shark’. After a couple of drinks, Guinness for Graham and myself, we ordered food. Graham fish and chips, Chris (Stephens) sirloin, Chris salmon and for me Picanha (steak) which came with rice, chips, black beans and pork, rice and pineapple. All the dishes were really well prepared and tasty. Back at our ‘homes’ we watched tv using Masie’s mum’s’ wifi.
Aire Fugeira da Foz, Portugal; This is a large car park area for around 60 motorhomes. It is flat and level with services and offered a quiet night. From 1800 until 0800 it is free. To park the whole day it is only €8. The town / city is a mix of old and new and some areas need a bit of tlc. A wide beach that is very sandy. Dogs are only allowed in some areas.
Thursday 23rd May (Day 19)
We had decided on our next stop and ‘booked’ it. After the normal start of filling and emptying we were off and the target was Peniche which had a good write up for a place to visit. It was a two hour journey. On the way we went around a bend and were presented with a fantastic ‘church’ which was in fact a 13thc monastery. A quick diversion and we paid a visit to the Monastery Botalha. Built in the 1300’s it was quite an amazing place to visit. This meant the arrival at Peniche was not until 1400. We ate and then went to walk to the port to join the others - walking in the wrong direction meant that today we cover a good distance. Eventually arriving at the port; we had a coffee before a visit to the caste which was used to house political prisoners after German prisoners in WWI. we found a great bar overlooking the bay so had a small libation before back to the motorhomes for a relaxing evening.
ASA Peniche, Peniche: A managed site that is secure and well maintained. There are other areas that free wild camping spots that look good. One is by the harbour and the other is the otherwise of the peninsula on the headland. It is a case of what best fits is good. This has showers and toilets well maintained but at a small price. Full services and a choice of EHU or not. Also an area to BBQ and another with a vehicle washing bay, including some steps with a platform for the roof - again at a small cost.
Friday 24th May (Day 20)
So a short twenty five mile trip to the next stop at Óbidos. We left around 1000 and were parked at the aire at about 1035. As I drove into he outskirts of the town I realised we had been here before. Looking at our photos there are two photos between both phones from 2019. Not sure where all the others are we must have taken more - perhaps on my SLR. Around 1130 Masie and Co arrived and we were soon off into the walled town. The town is completely surrounded by the castle fortifications. It has two main ‘tourist roads’ with shops, bars and souvenir shops. The more we walked the more we recognised. Chris and I decided to walk the walls. The inner side had nothing to stop you falling and getting ‘hurty’. Part way up the first bit I bottled it and we started back down. ‘Never Say Die’! A poor phrase perhaps in the circumstances but I said we would walk it all the way around. We did. However, there are videos of me that shows I am at best uncomfortable in some parts. We then went to a bar called the Prohibition Bar for a drink and the food looked amazing. When we left for the motorhomes we booked a table for 1900. Back at the motorhome on our ‘patio’ area we sat soaking up the suns rays and chatting (I suppose a drink may have been involved). Dinner time arrived and it was our ‘last supper’ together as tomorrow we part our ways. The meal, while only burger and chips, for all of us was exceptional. The burgers were so good you needed to state how you wished them cooked. To add to the experience there was a three piece live band who were very good. Back to our homes and a game of Mexican Train Game before bed just before midnight.
Aire Óbidos: This can accommodate around twenty motorhomes on a dusty area that is reasonably level. The €6 is collected, usually, around 1700 but an honesty box is also there if you miss them. (Please ensure you pay.) The walk into the town which is lovely is less than ten minutes. For those who like (a) drink and (b) food; outside the town is a bar called the ‘Prohibition Bar’. From the roadside it looks rough and ready but give it a try. At the rear it is lovely and the food is exceptional.
Saturday 25th May (Day 21)
So today we filed and emptied as the next two nights we may have no facilities. Then it was time for goodbyes as we started a slow return to ‘Blighty’, while Masie and Co are moving south. We have had to cut short our trip by a couple of weeks as Chris was not well when we left and needed a scan which is scheduled for the 6th June. Hence a slow mooch back. Our first stop was at an Aire at Ponte de Lima. We opted for a part non-toll and part toll route. This got us diesel at €1.49/l and cheap AdBlue also. Then onto the motorway. We arrived at the pay area and our ticket went in and out. In and out. In and out. A few locals behind us got a bit peeved. Eventually ‘someone from somewhere’; spoke to us from the paying machine and after five more minutes we were off! Around Porto and back onto a ticket toll road. What delights would we meet at the next payment area? Well nothing at all as we sailed through, paying with no problem. We eventually arrived at a car park / aire at Ponte de Lima. A walk into town via an exhibition by the army and police having a public facing day for the locals. The town is a delight. It has a bridge over the River Lima, built in the 13th century and a bridge has beenin this location for two thousand years - god bless the Romans. (What did they ever do for us.) A great troll around the town, although Chris was not feeling too ‘perky’. A nice walk around some ornamental gardens; a beer and ‘people watching’; and finally back to the motorhome.
Aire Ponte de Lima: It is just car park near to the river. Quite flat and level and quiet. That said it is big and the locals are happy to park considerately around you. A short walk into town and apart from the old bridge and the lovely bars and restaurants it is worth a stroll across the 13thc bridge to the other side of the river as next to the church are some gardens that are worth a visit should you be so inclined.
Sunday 26th May (Day 22)
We were off earlier than every today as we ‘lose’ an hour when we get back into Spain. We had opted for the toll route as it took off over an hour off a three hour plus trip and avoided the dodgy cobbled roads. As you would expect, empty roads and an easy journey. This morning my phone was dead and wouldn’t charge. On reaching Spain two things happened; my phone received a ‘welcome to Spain message’ and now works. In Spain the motorway was busier but less so than any motorway in the UK at 3am! Our destination is Santiago de Compostela. A large car park area (space for 60). Then a twenty minute walk into the city and the first stop must be the cathedral and was. This is the destination for the thousands that walk the Camino de Santiago routes. Three (or four) routes of several hundred miles that pilgrims walk. Thousands do it. The cathedral was an eye opened; we have seen better but still it is good. We then walked around and a drum band of fifty or so were deafening all those watching, so much energy. It was a pleasant stroll with old building and sites to see. Around 1640 we were on our way back to the motorhome and we decided not to stay in the car park but to find an alternative an hour so along our proposed route for tomorrow. We found Área Baralla. A small town with motorhome parking with all the services, including EHU for free. A lovely park and river at the back. We walked into town which had several bars and supermarkets and even a laundrette for €6 to wash and tumble. A good find.
Área Baralla: This is a dedicated aire that is flat and level. All pitches have access to electrics and also a water / waste bourne area. Some even have access to water on the pitch. It is clean tidy with a small park behind it where chairs etc could be accommodated, There were at least five bars. We only used one and got a very friendly welcome with tapas supplied also. This is a credit to the town so a big ‘Thank you’.
Monday 27th May (Day 23)
We had a two hour trip to our next stop - León. we had been recommend this as a good place to visit. At the start of the journey we were given a treat. A pair of hawks flew alongside us about 5m from the driver's window for a short while. Its was only about 12 - 15 seconds but a magic experience. Having arrived at the car park / aire at León Chris was looking a bit ‘peaky’ again and not feeling well at all. We discussed options and decided a short walk might help. The main attraction for León, like most Spanish cities. is the cathedral, so this was our destination. It was €12 for both of us and an enjoyable visit. León also had lots of bars and restaurants and grand buildings and also quite a ‘buzz’. A slow walk back to the motorhome followed as we have decided to spend a few nights on a camp site to try and help Chris feel better. This meant leaving León and getting another couple of hours travel completed. We had selected Aire Briviesca. As we arrived we realised that we had been here before - two years ago. We walked into town for a glass of wine and sat in the town square watching all the families playing. It is the centre of events it would seem. Briviesca is a tired place, like quite a lot of Spanish towns but does well for a stop.
Aire Briviesca, Briviesca: It is a level car park area above the town by the sports centre. It is visited by police to check all is well and with services also. A good stop over near to t he motorway but a tired town.
Tuesday 28th May (Day 24)
So today we are going to get back into France. An easy slow start and then off for a three hour (ish) journey to a campsite for a couple of nights and some washing. Most was motorway with some being tolls. Upon entering France we took tolls off the satnav which in hindsight was a mistake as the non-toll roads were densely populated, 50kmph (plus the 30kmph road humps). Arriving at Camping Village Resort & Spa Le Vieux Port, an ACSI site we had an interesting entry. It took an age to book in then it was ‘follow the man in the cart’. He drove through the barrier and we started to follow and the barrier came down just inches from our bonnet. “Monsieur Le Security Guard’ went nuts. Hey ho, we soon got settled on what is the biggest site we have been on for many years; since going with children and maybe even then it is bigger. We got our washing done after lunch then sat and soaked up the warmth. Around 1700 we went for a walk along the beach which was lovely. A long , wide, sandy beach and Atlantic rollers as a soothing background. Retuning after a couple of hours walk and we again sat in the sunshine before sausage and chips (Chatteris Bangers and some fantastic chips from the site). Then a lazy sit, chat followed by bed.
Camping Village Resort & Spa Le Vieux Port: This is a huge site of over 1200 pitches mostly static caravans, chalets or tents but with a lot of pitches in between. The facilities are first class and the swimming / flume complex is amazing. The on-site shop has a good variety of choice, albeit a bit more expensive than a ‘normal’ supermarket, which is to be expected. There is another supermarket 1km away that you pass on the way in that is cheaper. Despite the size of the site it is remarkably quiet and peaceful. It may be our bad luck but checking in was not easy as they did not seem to know what a motorhome was! We were then informed to follow the staff member on his buggy. He drove into the site and, as we attempted to, the barrier came down and almost hit our vehicle. What followed was a very disgruntled security guard berating me for trying to enter. Not the best of starts. This site offers much (some at a cost); A ropes course, quad bike rides, flumes and pools, basketball, entertainment (high season), children’s activities and much more.
Wednesday 29th May (Day 25)
We strolled up to purchase some fresh bread for breakfast quite late. We had decided to have a late breakfast, a bit of fruit for lunch and then an early evening meal. The bread was freshly cooked and nice. This meant that by 1100 we were still not fully sorted. we then walked the 1km to the end of the road to look at the supermarket there and have a coffee if there was a suitable place. No coffee. A few purchases and a stroll back where we had good coffee on the site. Today we had opted for an easy restful day. As stated a bit of fruit and some crisps for lunch and then just laze in the sunshine. About 1530 we decide to go to the pool complex. It had flumes, slides, five pools and much more. Eventually we had a swim and I attacked the flumes which were very good. Having had enough ‘exercise’ we retired to the bar and had a beer. While paying €9 for a beer - the dearest to date) we got talking to family from Manchester. They had booked a chalet for around £200 for a family of five for the week, such good value. Eventually back at the motorhome we had salmon for tea with another helping of their fantastic chips. We then packed most things away as we are off tomorrow.
Thursday 30th May (Day 26)
What a good idea to was to pack away yesterday as it rained most of the night. Being a sandy pitch it would have got everywhere. As it was the small runner mat had to be taken to a sink and a washed clean. We decided that after a shower and cup of tea we would drive off and purchase breakfast from the supermarket at the end of the road. Well it had bread but apart from one loaf nothing else looked very nice. So off we drove. Looking for a baker on the way we made a radical decision (for us); we will forgo breakfast and have an early lunch. The target stop was Cognac about 280km away. Around 1300 we stopped for our brunch and then continued on. The coordinates led us to the wrong car park. We could see where we needed to be and had to work a route out. Soon we were parked up and walked along the River Charente into the old town of Cognac. In the main square we had a beer and people watched, also chatting to an English couple sitting next to us. More walking around and back to the motorhome for a lazy early evening and food. After a while I suggested we walk back in to the city to see the night life and ‘feel the buzz’. Well a ghost town on a wet and windy day would have more excitement to it. The place was virtually deserted. A circular stroll and back for a cup of tea and chocolate before bed.
Parking Rue de Gabariers, Cognac: The coordinates are incorrect as it takes you to a car park next to the correct parking place. You need to drive to Rue de Port and then into Rue de Gabariers as otherwise no entry signs prevent utopia getting there. It is a level flat car park with no facilities. An easy walk into town along the river.
Friday 31st May (Day 27)
After a quiet nights sleep we got sorted and again decided to miss breakfast. Our planned stop was a campsite on the River Loire, Camping Terre d’Entente at Saint-Marie-de-La-Place. It was an easy drive with the brunch stop until almost at the site. The satnav took us a circuitous route and at the last turn we missed it with only 0.5km to go. This meant we entered a one way system adding 5km to the drive. Returning the road we missed there was a ‘No Entry’ except for locals access. We drove down a very narrow road and then a real ‘No entry’ sign with an almost 1:1 hill to a roundabout. Our only option, apart from a difficult reverse was to ignore the sign. At the top we had to stop and in re-starting the clutch smelt something terrible. The last 500m after that was a ‘No 3.5t’ restriction so all not well! The instructions was to ‘just ignore it’ so we did and were soon booked in and for 50c extra got a riverside pitch. That said the site was almost empty. Quickly settled we went for a walk and had a coffee at a quirky cafe on the river where four men were creating art. There were three stonemasons and the fourth making something from a huge 10m high tree stump with a chain saw. We then returned and sat in the sunshine having a drink. While doing so a French caravan parked up. The man had a t-short on with a union jack flag on the back of it. He spoke English and we mentioned his t-shirt. He was the President of the 51st Highland Division Spirit of the British Legion. He is the last of four. His wife was also an official British Legion and a Flag Bearer. They are attending a commemorative service tomorrow for a crew of an British Halifax bomber that crashed. (We are hoping to attend.) After dinner we watched a dvd and then retired,
Camping Terre d’Entente, Saint-Marie-de-La-Place; This is a riverside site about 8km from Saumur. Access can be difficult, especially if you have a stupid satnav! Best approach is along the D947. A very friendly welcome. Fairly level pitches (50c extra for a riverside view). The toilet block is clean but up 25 steps! A grassy ‘back to nature’ site. It has the options to hire bicycles or canoe down the Loire. Exiting the site onto the riverside footpath and turning left takes you to a quirky bar / restaurant. Others have mentioned it as good for food but we did not eat there.
Saturday 1st June (Day 28)
We woke up to a dismal grey day. After a shower I walked to the office to get our bread. What a lovely surprise as they were really light, eggy and tasty (pan au raisen). We were ready to leave by 1000 but were to follow Lionel, The President of the 51st Highland Division Spirit to the commemorative ceremony about fifteen minutes away. He said he would leave at 1015 and he did. He drove at a good speed for us which is just as well as some of the roads were not only bumpy but also quite narrow. (He assured me that he had reconnoitred yesterday to check all would be well.) We arrived at 1035 at a small plot in a field. Several people had already gathered and the local police were parking / sorting things out. It had a small memorial and plaque to the crew. They crashed their Halifax bomber on this day 80 years ago and avoided the village by doing so. One of the crew called Hargreaves, was on his last mission before marrying his sweetheart! She never married. The Deputy Mayor came and welcomed us as did some of the others villagers. There ended up around 50 people present for the ceremony. (I had to mention before things started that they had the Australian flag upside down!) At 1100 the commemoration got under way. National anthems of the UK, Australia and France with the respective flags being raised. A few speeches and the names of the crew and ages read out. They ranged from 21 to 31 years of age. The field the plane crashed into was behind us and the owner gave the small plot for the the memorial. Afterwards we all walked back to the farm on whose land this had happened on. They had laid on drinks. The original family still own the farm. Some more speeches in which were were mentioned. Then it was time to leave. We thanked the Mayor and his deputy and had many more handshakes from the locals. A quite moving and unexpected experience. Back to business. We had selected a site which was ACSI at €13 a night at Fresnay-sur-Sarthe, about two hours away. We had stern words first with the satnav lady about the route after yesterdays saga. Well she didn’t listen. She took us through a town with quite narrow streets and vehicles parked up. We had to squeeze by and it was made worse by one vehicle going in the other direction not driving through a big enough gap which resulted in more congestion. Eventually with much Gallic throwing up of hands we moved on. We arrived at Camping Municipal Sans-Souci at Fresnay-sur-Sarthe at 1420. The office was shut until 1500. Once open we set up on a pitch overlooking the river. A walk in to town seemed a good course of action having first put on long trousers as it was only 14 degrees. A stroll around the town and a drink at a bar before returning to the motorhome to warm up! Just before 1900 we returned to the town to go to the ‘Fresnay Café’ a place recommend by others. We both had the steak which was really good; we have had better chips but also a lot lot worse. All in all a nice meal with no rush to leave and lots of people watching. We finished the day with the much delayed World National Scrabble Championship at which I was trialing 2-0 from the first leg. I am happy to report a change in performance and we now stand at 2-2. Whether we get to get in a third leg has yet to be seen as schedules are tight.
Camping du Sans-Souci at Fresnay-sur-Sarthe: This is a municipal campsite. The pitches are separated by tall hedges and are mostly level. The toilets are well kept but the showers are, at best, warm. BYou must arrive between 9.00am and midday or 3pm an d 6pm. The cost was €21, which is good value. They also have a games room, small swimming pool and mini-golf. The Fresnay Café in town gets my vote lia good alternative is Les Nouvelles Alps Mancelles near to the church the food looked looked amazing.
Sunday 2nd June (Day 29)
Another overcast day. A second day of our journey in long trousers! We had a slow start and a mini Sunday ‘Big Boys’ breakfast. This was followed by a leisurely walk around the Medieval town taking in places we missed yesterday. This includes an 1km walk along the route of the vines. There is only a small vineyard which is just a memory and historic reminder of the town’s past. The vines were destroyed by parasite a couple of centuries ago. It was a chilly morning / early afternoon. After a small drink we returned to the motorhome to (a) drink cheaper; (b) decide on a stop for tomorrow; and (c) chill. The evening finished quite warm so we could sit out later than expected. We still finished with dvd.
Monday 3rd June (Day 30)
We had decided on a seaside stop tonight at Veulette-Sur-Mer about a three hour journey, and an hour from Dieppe. Firstly, we need ‘La Poste’ for a couple of cards. We found one on way to Saint-Céneri-le-Gérei. Named as the prettiest village in Normandy. We parked at a car park which was also an Aire (€5 a night). A gentle stroll around showed us why this claims to fame was made. It was a small pretty village of 120 residents - the oldest 97, and ‘Plus Fort’ and ten children. It is named after a holy man and we visited with the church which is 16thc and original wall paintings and a chapel where Saint Céneri lived - 15thc. In the chapel which was accessed by an electronic button was a stop said to be his bed. People came to lie on it to cure incontinence or get pregnant! We sat outside a café for a coffee before returning to the mh and moving on. Ou next stop was a supermarket for both diesel and wine. Our final destination was Veulette-Sur-Mer. A car park for 40 mh’s. On the way we were following the lady satnav, who had given us a few surprises in the last few days. The instruction was ‘turn right and embark own the ferry’. Well a ferry across the Seine was what faced us. We grounded on loaded but not on leaving. A pleasant run and we arrived at about 1630 to the aire. We sat outside in the warm sun until almost 1900 when we walked to find a restaurant. We had a really nice meal - moules for Chris and a T-bone veal streak for me with ‘posh’ crêpes to finish. A really nice meal for our last in France this trip.
Veulettes-Sur-Mer, France; This is a large car park for 40 motorhomes. It has the basic facilitates as you might expect. There is no sea view but a good level site. Despite the nearness to the road it is very quiet.
Tuesday 4th June (day 31)
So home today. We left about 0930 for an hours journey to the Dieppe ferry. A nice easy run and we had time so sought out somewhere to fill with LPG. It was a challenge and we ended up having a slow troll through Dieppe town. Eventually we arrived at the dock in good time and sat for over an hour waiting to board. Prior we had the motorhome checked the french police. On board we had a lovely smooth crossing. Arriving at Newhaven we had our passports checked again. We then had a three hour forty minute journey home. Wellcome home. as we approached the M3/M25 junction the eastbound towards Dartford was stationary. So via the west was the better option. That said we had two parts of the M25 with around a twenty minute delay each. The next thing we found out was the M25 to the A1 was a major delay. So the M1 was the next option. On entering that it had major issues so another diversion was needed. We followed the next route diversion and, lo, the A1 northbound was closed. In the end we drove across country to the M11 and then home. The journey took over five hours.
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