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Trip 121a - India 2023


Day 1 Thursday 16th March

Well strictly day 2 as we left Heathrow on 15th at 6.30pm. We arrived in New Delhi at 8.57am, all 22 of us were at bit tired! We had a bit of admin to enter the country all information previously supplied but like the British, the Indians have accepted the philosophy of paperwork rules. We were met by a tour representative and swiftly transported to our hotel, the Maidens Hotel. We were settled by midday and had some free time until 6.00pm. We had a three hour sleep and then we went out for a stroll. The traffic is unbelievable. Six lanes made into eight with Tuk Tuk's, bikes and motorbikes not only weaving in and out the other vehicles but going the wrong way also. The temperature was around 25 degrees so nice and comfy. The walk lasted about an hour and was an education in itself. Crossing the road was a case of ‘owning the road’ you walked and everything went around you. 6.00pm saw us in a reception area to meet everyone and our guide , Vikram, a free drink and the a nice Buffett dinner. By just after 9.00pm we, and most others, were in bed. .


Day 2 Friday 17th March

Breakfast was quite early as it was 8.30am on the bus. Two of our group overslept and did not get on until 8.50am - full of apologies. We started with a drive to India’s largest mosque, Jana Masjid. Shoes off and a stroll around before meeting a second guide, Robinson. A quirky university lecturer with a passion for history. He still lives in the past embracing no technology - still using a fountain pen and with no social media exposure. He took us on a walk around the narrow streets od Old Delhi including some nibbles and then a pedal rickshaw ride around the back alleyways. Solid tyres, no suspension and bumpy alleys led to a quite uncomfortable but exciting ride. Back on the coach and a drive from Old to New Delhi. The contrast was quite stark, except for the traffic. A visit to Ghandi’s cremation memorial and then off again. Some of the group were a bit peckish, it was almost 3.00pm, so we stopped at a restaurant in a ‘posh’ area. Even so, two meals were less than £15, although this is quite expensive we understand. Lastly, before returning to the hotel, we went to Emperor Humayun’s tomb. At the hotel most were still not hungry so we either rested in our rooms, had a drink, chatted or a combination of the three until latish we ate. We retired around 9.00pm.


Day 3 Saturday 18th March

A really early start. Our cases were collected yesterday evening to be taken to Agra by our coach driver. For us breakfast at 6.00am and on a coach for 6.40am for a train at 8.10am bound for Agra. Getting on the bus we discovered it was raining albeit very lightly. On the way we saw a motorcyclist who had run out of petrol being pushed by a tuk tuk driver using his foot. We learned that to drive a car you took an 18 day crash course with a guaranteed pass. Coach drivers were different. Always to on a coach the driver had a trainee. When passengers were on the bus the trainee did not drive but main mad did, the trainee drove at other times. The trainee would remain one for at least 8 years and then if recommended would start on 12 then 15 then 20 seater buses until after around 20 years they could drive a coach, a long apprenticeship. We arrived in good time at the railway station and soon our train, the Gatimaan Express, arrived and we settled in. (150 mile train journey to Agra Cantt plus breakfast for £9 a person.) On arrival we trundled from the train to our coach which has driven overnight from New Delhi. The light rain had stopped and it was a sunny 27 degrees. Once on the coach we journeyed to the Trident Hotel our stop for the night. We know the rooms would not be ready but we all used the facilities and then back on the coach to go to the Red Fort. This is a fort built over four generations by the Mogul rulers. It has two moats. The first was dry but would have had lions, tigers etc in it and the second was flooded from the river and had crocodiles in. What followed was a stroll through the fort and views of the Taj Mahal. One of the emperors was responsible for building the Taj for his deceased wife; she died in child birth (their 14th child). His third son was annoyed at the expense and eventually killed his brothers and imprisoned his father. This stopped the building of the second Taj which was to be all black across the river from the now famous one. The red fort was the base for the British army at the time of the Indian Uprising or, as India record it, the War of Independence. After this visit we went to the main marble inlay centre. The artisans are direct descendants from those who decorated the Taj. One flower inlay takes 32 pieces and takes one week to complete. Here we spent over £160 on coasters. Back at the hotel we accessed our rooms and we went for a swim before meeting up at 4.30pm for the sunset visit to the Taj Mahal itself. Arriving at the Taj it was organised chaos, so many vehicles, people and sellers of 'tat'. Around 20,000 people a day visit. First security and body search then in we went. It really lived up to the hype. An hour and a bit and we left just as the sun was setting. Back to the hotel for a lovely meal and a chat before bed.


Taj Mahal

Built from 1633-1652 for the wife who died aged 38 giving birth to the 14th child. 20000 workers constructed it with the marble transported from 400km away. The four towers lean away from tomb so if there is an earthquake they will not damage the tomb. It cost 20 billion rupees in 1632


Day 4 Sunday 19th March

So off again! 8.30am saw us on our way to Rathambore National Park. It is a full days journey. We started in heavy rain which, fortunately, soon stopped. After about three hours we stopped for a comfort break and a tea / coffee (great coffee). Then another 45 minutes and we stopped at Harshat Maya Temple at Abhaneri. This temple is no more thanks to the Moguls who damaged it. There are over 33 million Hindi gods. The main three gods are:

G= generator (Brahmin)

O = organiser (Vishnu)

D = Destroyer (Shiva) destroys evil and must replace with good

It was then a short trip to the Umaid Lake Palace. A lovely quiet and grand building where we had great food. We the still had two plus hours to Rathambore. Last night I had a bad night due to the ‘Delhi Belly’ so for the last of the journey slept at the back of the coach for a couple of hours. We arrived along a very dusty track at the ‘rustic hotel’, the Rathambore Kothi Hotel. We were made very welcome and, while out if the way this was to be expected as we were right on the edge of the National Park. There was a lovely pool and the rooms while ok dd need a deep clean. The food was very good and we all had a nice evening


Day 5 Monday 20th March

So an early start, 6.30am, saw us all gathering for a cup of tea/coffee before getting into the truck to ‘tiger chase’. It was a bit chilly so we were given blankets which we all ended up using on the seats under our bums as it was so bumpy. We spotted deer, samba deer, black faced monkeys, Indian magpies and sloth bears with the last of these a rare spot, the tiger eluded us. Just over three hours saw us back at the hotel where we laid around the pool and dozed. By now the temperature was in the high 20’s. A quick lunch and then off again looking for tigers. In the last week the guide had seen four in two trips a day for seven days so it wasn’t looking promising. We saw the deer again, monkeys, wild boar, peacocks and a crocodile amongst many. Luck was on our side though as thirty metres away we found a tiger (names '121') and for around forty minutes we watched him. To say everyone was happy is an understatement. To finish off just as we were about to leave we saw, albeit with difficulty due to undergrowth, a leopard which is a real rarity. A few of our party decided not to come on the afternoon drive so they will be gutted. It was not until around 6.30pm we got back. A shower and freshen up before dinner.


Day 6 Tuesday 21st March

The laziest start to date. Bags outside room by 9.30am and on the coach for 10.00am. What followed was a four hour bus ride to Jaipur the capital of Rajasthan. After a brief coffee stop we were off again. We had a packed lunch on the move and arrived at the Trident Hotel overlooking a large lake at 2.00pm. We had nothing planned until 5.30pm. So we settled into our room and then went for a swim / lounge around the pool. 5.30pm saw us all meet for a street walk. We had no idea of what to expect. What followed left a big smile on all our faces. The coach was to drop us off at the main square of the old city. On the way we saw an elephantwith its mahut walking along the road. The coach stopped and Vikram was off and the elephant became our photo opportunity. When dropped off we entered the old town’s shopping alleys and tried some street food. It was a busting, jostling experience where we had to walk 'with sharp elbow' to make progress. It was a great experience. A visit to a mosque and then an electric tuk tuk ride through the streets and lanes to a restaurant. Here we had some Pakistani wine before returning to our coach by the same tuk tuks. This meant dinner was beyond 9.00pm and, not being very hungry, it was a quick affair. Bed soon followed.


Day 7 Wednesday 22nd March

Happy new year (2070) for Hindus! (They have lunar years.)

We met at 8.30am for a trip to the Amber Fort. One of four built by the Emperors over 350 years. They are all close together on adjoining hills and some linked by tunnels. One is still lived in by the ‘royal family’. The others have been given to the country. To get there after the bus ride we got into jeeps and up the steep road to the fort. What followed was an interesting stroll through the palace. There was a square where the emperor held audience, a square where his twelve wives lived (he had around 200 concubines also) and the general living area including then16th century latrines. On our way back by jeep we were again bombarded by sellers to whom ‘no’ meant ‘maybe’! Back on the coach we drove off with a young boy on board who did some magic tricks. Then onto the block printing / textile / carpet making area. It takes between four months and more than a year to make one carpet. We ended up buying one at a fifth of the UK price - still almost £800! Back to the hotel and then free time until 5.45pm. A snack and laze around the pool and then we all met up again and got onto the coach for a trip to a family home, the House of Nokha, to be entertained (and we were) on Indian cooking before being fed by them. Probably the tastiest food to date as it had no real heat but was well spiced and flavoured. Back to the hotel through the chaotic streets. We then went to our room and had a glass of wine while filling in a Distant Journeys questionnaire.


Day 8 Thursday 23rd March

Today we met at 9.00am for a short journey to the Janter Manter (Janter = observations; Manter = calculations). This observatory was built in 1728. It has a sundial accurate to 20sec and a second sundial accurate to 2 seconds. Also there is a sundial to identify the star sign you were born under to assist with astrological predictions. (Even today marrying, changing jobs and even buying a car can be as a result of seeking a reading.) Another structure always points to the North Star and a last construction helped identify where any star, constellation or galaxy is. All this almost three hundred years ago. Next we walked next door to the Royal Palace. A pleasant stroll around and then back to the hotel by around midday. Then a bit later the two of us went for a walk into the old town stopping for a meal. At one point it rained and we took shelter under an arch. Next we entered some tight winding claustrophobic lanes packed with people buying material for saris, or saris already made, that were beautiful. Having extricated ourselves from these alleyways we took a tuk tuk back to the hotel. A read while sat around the pool for an hour or so and then up to our room to sort our cases for the trip to Goa tomorrow. A late dinner and then to our room.


Day 9 Friday 24th March

Today after breakfast we said goodbye to fourteen of our group who are on their way home. The remaining eight are off to Goa. Our coach left at 10.00am for Jaipur airport. Here we met ‘mrs happy’ the security officer to access the airport. Between six of us, on be ticket, we were 11kg over weight and they wanted 6600 rupees, about £66. We are in a bartering country and I got it down to 3300 rupees. The flight was pleasant and uneventful. Landing at 3.25pm we got our cases and met the agent. We landed at the new airport to the north of Gos which with traffic was about ninety minutes journey to our hotel in the south. Zuri White Sands Hotel is just stunning. Once settled in our room we went to explore. The pool and beach were great even with the strong wind blowing across the beach. A beer watching the sun set before a shower and then dinner with some of the best food to date.


Day 10 Saturday 25th March

A nice slow start and a good breakfast. We the took a taxi to a local beach / shopping area and spent £10 for the taxi there and back with him waiting an hour for us and also £4 on a small elephant gift. Back to the hotel and a laze around the pool. We then strolled to Mama's Kitchen on the beach for a lovely curry and beer and as the weather was so nice at 28 degrees we then adjourned to a sunbed by the sea. The red flag was flying but with no rip tide, an on shore breeze and the tide coming in this made no sense. So a dip in the sea was on the agenda. It was like bath water. While I dried in the sun and dozed Chris went in the sea. Late afternoon the wind had increased so we scuttled back to the pool. After a bit more sunbathing we went up the road to Sara’s shop about 400m walk away and bought a couple of items. On the return we stopped at an off license and bought some dark rum for £2.50 the same rum we were given days ago at the carpet place in Jaipur!


Day 11 Sunday 26th March

A slow start and the plan for the day was breakfast, beach, mama’s kitchen, pool until 4.30pm. Due to an upset stomach it changed to breakfast, pool, mama’s kitchen, beach then back to room for Chris to shower before a massage. While she had that I returned to the pool for the last of the sun’s rays.


Day 12 Monday 27th March

The start of a long day. After breakfast we went and sat around the pool for an hour before finishing our packing and vacating the room by 11.00am. Midday saw us on the bus to the Goa South airport. By 3.15pm we were on th flight o Mumbai arriving at 4.35pm. We then had until 1.50am for the flight to the UK. We booked into a lounge with nice comfy seats, drink (soft) and food, in addition shower facilities also. Eventually the time came to board for the none hour flight to the UK. Arriving at 7.30am UK time meant we had been awake fort went hours (ish). We called for our car (Meet & Greet). They informed us they would be sentinel as the M25 (northbound) was closed due to an accident. Ths meant the two hour journey home took three hours.







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