Europe Trip 2022 - 2
Monday 12th September (Day 15)
So it would have been a really quiet nights sleep had it not been for the rooster and Quasimodo who is alive and well and living in the church bell tower nearby. Before we left in our motorhome we heard Dave’s van drive off. He did so as the school bus for Leon had broken down and so he had to take him to school. We got up early, for us, to walk Seren up to catch her school bus in Charras. (She is just three years old!) Due to Leon’s bus disaster the household was thrown into a bit of chaos and we were half running up to get Seren on the bus. Amelie-Rose goes to school in Charras - it is all very confusing. We returned to Chante Merle and Jo had to rush off for Zumba class so we grabbed a few extra minutes of internet while chatting to Dave who had by now returned. Then our final goodbye. We drove off picking up some bread as we drove through the village. We then needed to stop to have breakfast which we did around 10.15am in a lay-by. Our route was to take us via a fuel station to get lpg as our gauge was showing full after almost two weeks away and we thought that odd. Clearly we were almost empty as we put over nineteen litres in. Then on to Sarlat-le-Canada, Here we had chosen another B&B with room for two motorhomes. It was overlooking Sarlat high in the hills and access was gained mainly in second gear but sometimes first gear up narrow winding roads. The owners (Anne and Oliver) who owned L’Ollivanne were very french with no English so it took a while to sort things out. Oliver was building a large model railway in the garden and it already is about 60m long. We soon parked, settled and had lunch. We then spent three hours ‘chasing the shade’ as it was so hot. Around 5.00pm we walked down into the old town. When I say down this was the steepest road I have walked for many a year and the thought of the up later on was quite daunting. Having arrived at the old town we quickly remembered our previous visits and walked around looking for somewhere to eat later on. (We found out that no restaurant would open before 7.00pm.) A beer here and another there whiled the time away until we rocked up at a créperie. We both had chicken, mushroom, béchamel sauce and fromage gallets. There were lovely and would have been nicer if the chef had remembered the mushrooms! All this washed down with a nice dry cider. A slow walk back followed which was more challenging than we expected. On our return I went for a cold shower while Chris sat down as her vision had gone wonky. She followed having a shower and we sat out late into the evening reading and stuff still in 25+ degree warmth. As we went to bed I thought we had not had our lump of jelly this morning, which we take to try and strengthen our nails. I opened the pot that the cubes were in and found that the container was totally liquid which demonstrates what a hot day it has been.
Tuesday 13th September (Day 16)
It was a very close and sticky night. Sleeping was not easy. We ate inside as, just as we were set to have breakfast, it started to rain. Well not really rain and, in fact, it soon stopped leaving the ground looking bone dry. We filled with fresh water and off we went. First stop, 2km at a L’Eclerc. A few items and then a stroll over to the Decathlon nearby. Here I purchased a cycle hat as, for some reason, my old one, now six or so years old, was getting uncomfortable. Our next destination was Camping Le Capeyrou at Beynac. It was all of a five mile drive. So before noon we were setting up, putting on the washing and having lunch. In the afternoon we wandered along the Dordoyne River into Beynac. It is a small old medieval town built into the side of a steep cliff face with the Château at the pinnacle. We were also looking at what the restaurants had to offer. None really appealed as it seemed to be almost duck, duck confit, duck terrine and foie gras. That seems to be the norm for this general area - other than pizza. The second mission was to see if we could find somewhere that does ‘frites emporter’. The town offered nothing like that but right opposite the camp entrance and behind the three shops (where you could get almost everything you would want to cook your own meals) was a chippy. Happy days, Back at the site we strolled up for a swim in the pool as it was so very hot and humid and we needed to cool down. It was lovely pool and quite busy. Our next venture was ‘happy hour’ which was not two-for-one as we know it to be but was reduced prices. This also allowed us access to site in the wi-fi zone and to catch up with people and things. On return to the pitch I cooked and Chris did the chip run. A simple meal followed but it always tastes better (a) outdoors and (b) with french chips which, in general, beat British chip shop chips hands down. A lazy evening finished the day. Considering today was 70% chance of thunderstorms we have been very lucky with wall-to-wall sunshine.
Wednesday 14th September (Day 17)
We had some thunder and rain during the night that made the van yellowy as it obviously brought sand with it. That said the day starts dry and cloudless. After breakfast (only one croissant each as they were massive) we sat around until lunch. Well that is not quite true as we had a mishap with the toilet and ‘liquid’ came out of the bottom of the moho. So everything was cleaned to within an inch of its life including taking a side panel out to access bits not normally seen. After lunch we had planned to visit the Château de Beynac. It was along hot climb up streets that had barely changed since medieval times (alright electricity is installed; yes and plumbing). The views were really impressive but the higher we climbed the more ‘Dèja Vu’ the surroundings were. Reaching the Château itself we realised we had been here before and decided to keep our €18 for a visit in our pocket. We continued to the very top, Le Plan Panoramique, where we met a couple of Belgium nationals who had cycled up, no electric either. They wanted a photo as proof, so we obliged. Back down we paid a visit to the tourist information to see if there were any ‘green’ bike routes nearby. The answer was “Non”. Back at the site we slowly moved around the moho to keep in the shade and, while doing so, planning the next few nights stops with a view to an English bar on Monday for the Queen’s funeral. Our plan is to be in Argeles-Sur-Mer. It was then time for a swim followed by ‘happy hour’. Another simple meal of cheesy leeks and sausages before packing away what we could and then just people observing then bed.
Thursday 15th September (Day 18)
Breakfast was yoghurt and fruit and then we packed the last bits. A stroll over to the shop for some fresh veg and a baguette and then we were off, by just after 10.15pm. Destination was L’Aire de Cordes sur Ciel about 120kms away. We planned a first stop though that was only 25kms away at Gourdon. Parking in the aire we walked up to the pretty hilltop village where we visited the church, went to the viewing platform, walked some narrow alleyways and then had a coffee. A short stop of about an hour. Off again and the next stop was for lunch on the side of the road. Onwards we then went and Chris noticed a sign stating that on our route, we thought, was a medieval town, St Antonin Noble-Val. Yes we did go through it and, had it not been for Chris’ eagle eye, we would have missed a treat as the road we would have taken skirted around it. We found an aire to park in and moseyed into the centre. It was a great find, again all narrow alleys, with the old ancient lights above the street, the oldest town hall in France (allegedly) and much more. Every turn there was more to see. Indeed we went into the church and we were surprised how similar this was to Gourdon church eighty odd miles away. It was a pleasant short stop. The route to here and onwards were lovely traffic free country roads with trees of many autumnal colours and, occasionally a vehicle. Around 3.30pm we arrived at the aire at Cordes our Ciel.and were not expecting very much as reviews were mixed. We found a car park type aire as expected but with bays to park under trees giving some shade all clean and tidy and for €7 for twenty-four hours is a bargain. After a much needed cuppa we strolled up to the town. Stroll is a misnomer it was twenty minutes of 1:3 and even 1:1 cobbled roads. In the 27+ degrees it was a challenge. That said it was worth the effort. Twisty cobbled streets that if a bunch of cavaliers came around the corner it would not have been a surprise. Once at the top a beer was a much needed interlude. Then a bit more walking about until the return down which was not much easier on the muscles. It was now past 6.30pm so a chicken butter curry was rustled up with an aperitif. Having almost washed up after the meal a Frenchman appeared who we had noted chatting to many others on the aire. He spoke no English but still the two of us and Marcel chatted for over thirty minutes with him complementing my French!!!!!! He was 82 years old and a local who clearly was lonely. Eventually, he drove off home leaving us to wonder about his life. Despite all this we still were in bed by 9.15pm, almost unheard of and slept until gone 8.00am
Friday 16th September (Day 19)
Well the day started well as Chris, yesterday, bought two pain au raisen. This meant I did not have to walk 500m up a 1:1 hill. We ate outside as it was nice and sunny and by about 9.30am were off. We stopped at this location which is just short of a city called Albi. Here we wanted to see the cathedral which I had read quite a bit about. Before we arrived we saw diesel at £1.40/litre and that was for the posh stuff, the basic was £1.33/l but they had run out; this is compared to over £1.80/l when we left home. Albi was a forty minute run and a lovely route through the mountains and wooded forests but……….. despite having the coordinates of the camper van parking by the cathedral we could not find it. To make matter worse the ‘Albi Marie’ had put signs up for camper parking which sent us all over the place. They really need to get a grip! Eventually, about 10.40am we were parked right next to the cathedral. Free to stop as well for camper vans! So to the cathedral. The entrance part is really old looking but the rest is brick built that makes you believe it is more recent. That said the brick building is hundreds of years old and it is built like this to appease the anti-christian heretics who believed the Roman church was ostentatious. Back being the cheapest form of building at the time. It is the largest brick built building in the world. On entering it made all the difficulties to park worthwhile. It was gobsmacking. It is the Cathedral de St Cecile who is the patron saint of music. The organ, which is many hundreds of years old has 3500 pipes and is huge. The cathedral itself is built in two sections with a rude screen separating the choir (read bishops, priests etc) from the faithful. This meant that each end has an alter. One, the clergy side, faces east as it should but the other made of black marble faces west which again is an unusual feature. In the cathedral there is not one framed painting. All the painting is on the actual wall and over 500 years old, taking three years to complete. Even more impressive is that there has never been any restorative work undertaken, what you see is what was seen 500 years ago. After this visit we strolled around the city with no particular plan. Eventually it was lunchtime and Chris finally got her ‘moules et frites’. Our next planned stop was about an hour away but, as you can, plans were changed. we opted for a free aire on the ‘Canal du Midi’ at a place called Homps, not many miles from Narbonne. Again, due to ‘Route Barre’ and road changes and ‘no right turns’ and even the coordinates being slightly out we arrived… eventually. We parked up overlooking the canal and moored boats. Here we encountered two females from Wisconsin USA and had a chat and they wanted to see inside Billina which we proudly allowed them. It was still around 4.30pm and a canal path beckoned so we got the bikes off and cycled a very pleasant ten miles. On our return we re-secured the bikes and sat with an (English) beer by the canal watching the sun set.
Saturday 17th September (Day 20)
So today a couple of hours to Argelès-sur-mer where we hope to stop at Camping europa. The idea, as mentioned earlier is to find a ‘British’ pub to watch the funeral of Elizabeth II. A stop first for provisions and then up we roll. A point in fact we bought the most expensive grapes and plums of all time. In themselves they were quite cheap but someone (male) forgot to push the button on the cupboard door. So on a roundabout there was a load crash and all the plates (and fruit) came tumbling out. Said male has done this before on this trip. The result this time was two plates broken (about £16), a fruit bowl we bought over 40 years ago broken (priceless) and the grapes squished. On our arrival we are ‘tutted’ for not having a reservation but they found us a pitch, that said they were very few. This is not the camp site I would choose and certainly not the pitch which was 50m from the 24/24 car wash. We set up and cycled to find our tv pub. Even the Tourist Office, who phoned around for us, could not find one. What to do? Well a beer made it clear - BENIDORM; only nine hours way. We informed the site we were off and, bless them, no charge. We then included motorway tolls to get out of France as the non tolls added three hours. The toll was a massive €1.30. We were on the tolls but not before i cut a poor Frenchman up! Once in Spain the toll motorways are now free so we made good time. We left the french site about 4.50pm and drove until 7.30pm when we stopped to find a place to sleep. We found Area Bellvei Autocravanas in Bellvei, Tarragona. The satnav lady must have been giggling the whole time. She took us through the village and we had one or two inches to spare in one particular road. Then about 2km of road where we would not have passed another vehicle. Eventually, “You have arrived at your destination”. Nothing to be seen until behind a derelict building a small aire of about 30 places - almost full. Surprise surprise no British here. It is really remote but I hope the trains which are about 80m away stop overnight!
Sunday 18th September (Day 21)
Well the trains did not stop, but they were less frequent in the night, but stop … Nooooo. They are so fast and noisy it is unbelievable. Add to that the donkey, dogs and chickens and it was an ‘interesting’ night. We were, therefore, up earlier than planned and after a simple breakfast were on the road by 7.30am. Our first stop was diesel as the motorway prices, like at home, are off the scale. We had just over 450km to cover for our earmarked site, Camping Villasol at Benidorm. We had a great run with very few vehicles to be seen on the AP7 motorway (now free). We did encounter some really heavy rain squalls which at some points flooded the road and needed full speed windscreen wipers. We arrived n sunshine at just after 12.20pm and, fortunately, there were places free. It took a while to find a place as (a) they had major improvements underway and this already on site told us of the noise and dust and (b) some of the pitches had covers over the top for extra shade which were very low. Eventually, before 1.00pm we were settled and having lunch which was much needed. After that we had a walk of the site to get our bearings and then we cycled into Benidorm to locate a possible place to watch the funeral tomorrow. Well Benidorm does bring out the snob in me! All the tattoos, tits, and beer bellies on display along with mobility scooters that many do not need just infuriates me. It re-enforces my view of (some) Brits abroad. Judgemental? Yes! Unfair? No! I accept we are all different but some are from another planet. We found a few options for Monday and moved away from the drinking hub. Here we found an Irish pub. Guinness and cider for less than half the price of France! We returned to the site as we were very hot and enjoyed a leisurely swim in the pool which is lovely. It was then chill out time at the motorhome in the 27 degrees heat.
Monday 19th September (Day 22)
So it is ‘fingers crossed day’; will Chris see the funeral or not after all our efforts. Breakfast was delayed as the site shop ran out of bread and was baking some more; No croissants but a nice hot baguette. After that a bit of minor cleaning. Having identified a bar that would open at 11.30am (Buddies) we decided that rather than sit around the motorhome we would sit around the bar to guarantee getting in as we had no idea of the interest. The BBC programme actually started earlier but we did not know when. We walked to the bar and saw that hotel Pueblo next door had a big screen by the pool with lots watching. In for a penny in for a pound; we strolled in as if a resident and got to the door to to the pool which needed our hotel card to open it…… A door next to that allowed us into the bar / restaurant area with another big screen. So we sat down in air-con heaven to watch the funeral unfold. We were two of only about eight watching at this place. So from about 10.50am to the end of the London pageant (2.45pm) we sat watching it. We then left and were after a Spanish Sim card as, one of the many downsides underplayed by lying Boris Johnson relating to Brexit, is roaming is lost to almost all. We strolled to the old town which is much nicer than Brit-Benidorm and found a tourist information who indicated a mobile phone shop which would open at 5.00pm; it was 3.40pm. What to do? Well O’Mara’s bar seemed to fit the bill. Mr O’Mara was as Irish as the Thames but it was a nice bar. On the TV? The next part of the funeral at St George’s Chapel, Windsor. We had a pie (steak) and a pint followed by a G+T (the pie was a typical microwave job) We picked a Sim up (30GB for €10) and strolled back to the site. Intending to have a salad but neither of us was very hungry so half a small baguette then bed around 9.00pm!
Tuesday 20th September (Day 23)
So no rush but today we will leave ‘Little Britain’. We ensured we were full / empty as we had no idea of where we would stop just a general direction (south). We were away about 10.15am. We had set the satnav for Cartagena which is about 125 miles away and deselected motorways and tolls as we wanted to go through some towns as see if any ‘grabbed us’ to stop. First though, we did not know how much lpg we had but needed diesel. We had selected a fuel station with lpg and arrived at it. Our Spanish lpg connector kept making a horrible noise and the attendant came and helped. He got the same so walked off to get a connector from the garage. I looked at our one and the rubber had split. we will need to sort this. Then to his disgust and all his effort was for €3.10 of gas. We made up for it with €56 of diesel. It is dearer here at €1.83/l. Onwards. As we were approaching Alicante it looked like we may go through a busy part of it. I opted for the motorway, thinking it was free. Well it was not free and so we came off at the next junction but only €0.55 out of pocket. In hindsight we should have stayed on it a couple more junctions as we still drove through a busy part of Alicante. We were avid diesel price watchers and saw it at one point for €1.69 - but could not easily get to it. A bit later we saw it for €1.73 and decided to fill up which was another €56, so over €120 today on diesel, While stopped we selected an aire for lunch. The first allowed no vehicles over 5m. So we drove through the car park and out. The second was also a potential stop over. It was a large car park with dunes between us and the beach. We pulled up next to a German MH and had lunch. The entrance showed no camping and no caravans but was a bit wishy washy on motorhomes. Anyway we looked at the beach which was nice and decided to move on. All the stops were about ten miles between each one. As we approached the next potential stop we had salt lakes and wild life either side with many white pink flamingoes. Arriving at the site it was clear I had done something wrong in the transformation of the co-ordinates we definitely could not stop here. Trying again we had another 12-13 miles to go so on we went again. This time it was a converted and now defunct bus terminus called Area Los Alcázares at well, Los Alcázares. It had a large parking area plus five covered places that the buses use to pull into. We stopped under cover and got the bikes off and cycled the 1.6 miles into town. Here we cycled along the promenade and back again stopping at one point to go into the sea which was warmer than the heated pools we had been in to date. Almost an hour later we got out dried and changed and stopped for a coffee / coke. (Today s a non drinking day.) Back to the motorhome and just a chill out with a lovely breeze to keep us cool as it has been above 30 degrees.
Wednesday 21st September (Day 24)
Well, Chris had a bad night. Last night she had very bad pain around her right ear and it was very tender. Not sure of the cause or whether it would get worse. She had a poor night and took drugs during the night to try and relieve the pain. The morning, while still an issue for her, appeared to be better, but still not right. We dithered yesterday whether to stay another day or not. Road noise and parakeets convinced us to move on. I had earmarked a site about forty-ish miles but almost two hours traveling time away; we agreed this to be a good choice and so, as it was a wild camp, we filled /emptied at our current location before the off. The weather forecast was 90+% rain but it did not look like that was the case. However, God wanted to back the weather forecasters and so it rained for about three minutes but not enough to need windscreen wipers. The drive, despite the road humps, was a very pleasant route across the plains and over the hills to the Mediterranean. We needed a few items so looked out for a supermarket. The route was slow due to lots of villages with 30kmh limits but no supermarkets. Almost at our destination we found a Lidl and did a small shop to guarantee the next couple of days food. The wild site at Ilsa Plana had a good view of the sea and was a free stop. Having settled in we had lunch and then opted to walk along the promenade towards the promontory. Here was a tower, Saint Helena’s, I believe, that we walked up to (because we could). It was a hot and sticky walk and we should have had some water with us. On the return trip we had beer at the only open establishment around and people watched as it was very busy. By the time we had returned to Billina we had walked about three miles. It was in the mid-20’s and humid. We changed into swim wear and the sea was our target. While glorious it felt less warm than yesterday but that may have been as we were hotter. An hour later it was still lovely. Back at the motorhome we sat out and, eventually, cooked steak and egg for dinner. Even as I type this, around 9.30pm, it is nice and warm. Our current decision is to stay at least one more night.
Thursday 22nd September (Day 25)
An energetic day; although we did not know it yet! Before breakfast Chris cut my hair. A lucky decision was made here. Shall she give it all a cut or just tidy the sides and back? The latter was decided and the clippers just managed that before running out of battery power. I could have had half a hair cut! We had decided on yoghurt for breakfast and then eat out at lunchtime. I had read that the ‘Batteria de CalillistosXX was worth a trip and we could cycle there. We though this a good idea. We were wrong. First off the route took us to a stoney track that was not suitable. So we retraced out steps and took another, slightly longer route. The main difference was just the first bit, the main part would have been the same. What followed was a mission we were not equipped or prepared for. It was about eight or so miles and the final point only 800m high but to get to it were a range of very tall hills. Over five miles was up hill and I mean UP. That coupled with the heat meant one bottle of water was not really enough. It took about ninety minutes and arriving at the gun battery were were applauded by a couple who passed us thirty minutes previously in their car. The guns and fort were built in 1927. The guns, made by Vickers (UK), have barrels almost four metres long. They were transported up by steam engine and the fort itself has a Disney look to it. The guns can propel shells weighing one ton 35 miles. They were built to protect the bay of Cartagena and its munitions dump and other military installations. They were only fired once which was in the Spanish Civil War against Franco’s fleet; Cartagena being Republican. It is all accessible and the towers have spiral stairs. It is quite an amazing place and worth the blood, sweat and tears. The return was easier but still we had a couple of steep uphills. On getting back to the motorhome we parked up and walked about 1km to a local restaurant. Here the waiter gave us the menu and looked disgruntled when we asked for the ‘Menu Del Dia’ which was considerably cheaper. For €12 each we had starter, soup, main course, desert and coffee. The walk back was a bit slower! We sat in the shade of the motorhome reading for a while before the sea beckoned. An hour bobbing around and then back to soak up the sun for the last couple of hours. The cycling was 18.5 miles today.
Friday 23rd September (Day 26)
So the decision last night was a last day here as a ‘beach day’. As usual a lovely sunny day with 28 degrees is ‘promised’. After breakfast we changed our plans; no surprise. We decided to cycle into Mazarron, about 6 miles each way. There were several objectives; to try and get a replacement LPG (Spanish) gas connector as the rubber has broken on ours and it cannot be used; to try and get a spare inner tube, pump and tyre levers as I seem to have lost ours; for a coffee overlooking the sea; and to see Mazarron. All objectives were met! Two coffees for €2.70! A washer to fix the LPG thingy (free); The bike bits €20; and a cycle around which was pleasant. We were unsure whether to eat in Mazarron or cycle back, The decision was to cycle back as it was bit early for grub. On the way back Chris’ battery died. Being a gentleman we swapped and the last three miles I was powerless. Back at the motorhome was strolled down to the nearest bar for lunch but were not enthused. So we walked a short distance to another bar / restaurant. Chris had the bright idea to select a few starters as a sort of tapas menu. Crispy fried shrimp with a Thai sauce; Fried goats cheese with a berry jam; potatoes, cheese and bacon; and fried calamari. In all honestly the calamari was the poorest offering and we were too full to really appreciate it anyway. A slow waddle back and we sat in the shade recovering before off to the beach for a swim. After about 30 minutes Chris made her way back and I then snorkelled. Where we were swimming were a few fish but just fifty metres out where there was some seaweed and coral it was fish heaven. Literary, hundreds of fish plus a stingy jelly fish. I spent another half hour before going back to join Chris. We must move tomorrow as we need the loo emptying and our battery’s will need charging soon. Fresh water we could manage another day. But also clothes washing is going up the agenda. We sat out until almost 9.00pm before going on to plan our new move.
Saturday 24th September (Day 27)
We woke to the usual weather. Blue skies and warm. We had decided on a short sixty plus minute drive to Aguilas. The last time we were there we had our Rapido and we wild camped where it is now not allowed. Also we met a little fire engine - literally but no real damage caused. Anyway, after breakfast we finished packing and drove first into town to a supermarket for some essentials for the next few days. Then off we went. A great drive along an almost empty back road where the landscape was such that if some red Indians and cowboys came over the hill you would not be surprised. We arrived at Camping Bellavista, just outside Anguilla’s at 11.30am and were soon settled. We sat around for a while in the shade and had lunch. In the afternoon we thought we would go for a swim in the pool. We thought the water was a bit cool so changed our mind and went to the sea. First beach 300m; too stony rocky. Back the other way where we tried three more all the same and the sea was quite rough and, probably, not warmer than the pool! What a difference a few miles makes. As we went more into town the beaches did get better so we hope that tomorrow we will find a good one. Anyway back to the site and a shower to get the salt / sand off. We had thought we would have chips from the restaurant with our dinner but the restaurant is closed! Potato salad instead. We then sat and chatted before turning in.
Sunday 25th September (Day 28)
Another good day in the offing. We had English bacon in a baguette for breakfast; just so nice. We then decided to cycle into Aguilas to see the town and as a ‘target’ the Rincôn de Hornico was set. This is a set of steps that a local artist used mosaic tiles to decorate. Nice but not a ‘wow’. We cycled back to the site and sat around soaking up the warmth. It was so warm we were not overly hungry for lunch and so just a bit of fruit and some crab sticks met our needs. We then found that nearby was a Decathlon and we still needed a couple of items so with the ability to go for a swim also off we went. We got most of what we were after. The beach at ‘Playa de Colinia’ was recommended and it certainly was the best we have experienced. We spent an hour or so just bobbing about and then half an hour standing in the sunshine drying off. All the time rain and thunderstorms were threatened but never materialised. It would appear the mountains were holding it back. On the return we stopped for a much needed beer and then back to the site for a shower and sit around. We were still not hungry so food was not until around 7.30pm. The clouds were still gathering and lightening and thunder was around us. Eventually our good luck ran out and the storm hit. Lots of rain, thunder and lightening. So we scurried inside and battened down the hatches.
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