Thursday 3rd October (Day 43)
In our deliberations of where go yesterday, Chris expressed a desire to have some freshly caught and cooked sardines, a speciality in the Algrave. I had read that Portimao was one of the best places to eat them so we back tracked a few miles and stopped in the port of Ferragudo. Here we strolled around and found a small square with restaurants on all sides. (I did not know but this is a very recommended area for sardines.) Anyway €28 gave us a three course meal with beer, wine or soft drink and coffee. Chris had her sardines preceded by fish soup and finished with a creme caramel (but different from what we are use to in that is was more cake and coarse rather than the smooth UK version). I had soup also but it had a poached egg and bread in a tasty broth. This was followed by a mixed grill of huge proportions and then the creme pudding as they called it. We then drove to Praia de Rocha, a beach, claimed by many in the Algarve, as the best on the coast. It is large and has very white sand. The sea was quite rough but good fun also. By around 4.00pm the wind was getting stronger and blowing the sand so we left. We sat for a few minutes deciding on whether to remain in the Algarve or start to move north. The latter won out. We drove a pretty route to a town called Aljezur, driving through the Sierra de Monchique. We eventually found where to park as the coordinates given involved us going down a very narrow road where motorhomes were prohibited and the wrong side of the river. High above us was the Aljazur 10th c castle. Well up we had to walk to it. It afforded great views over the valley and was free. Back down and we sat in the motorhome still not overly hungry but being 'brave. Soldiers' had some cheese and biscuits.
Friday 4th October (Day 44)
Well after a good nights sleep (ignoring Chris shouting in her sleep and the refuse men at 05.00). We opted to go to Cabo Sargoa a lighthouse with storks nesting. We left in bright sunshine, but, 2km from the destination we encountered, a dust storm (?); No; Smoke? No; Sea mist! Parking up we could barely see the lighthouse and as for cliffs or storks, well....... We actually did see one but even the photo makes it look clearer. Our next stop was Sines. This was about 40km away but the roads made it seem 140km. We had been warned that as you moved north roads got worse. Apart from degraded roads the edge, in places, were raised as much as 30cm. Trying to avoid them and oncoming traffic was a challenge. The route, however, was lovely. Lots of old round towers that were once windmills, some with spars still attached. Also thousands of Quercus Super trees (cork trees). Some were recently stripped of their bark and were a rusty colour up to 2m from the ground others had been 'corked; some time ago and were re-growing. Arriving at Sines we stopped at Intermarche to fill with water and empty the toilet and grey waste (WAKE UP UK!) we could also have stayed here 48 hours. On we drove to the sea front. Sines is a tired town (with a fort) but a lovely sandy beach bending around with a harbour at each end, very picturesque. Lunch overlooking the view of the water and then a walk around the town which reinforced that we had seen the best at the sea front. Our next intended overnight stop was Alcacer do Sol (a town dealing in salt). On the way we passed more 'cork trees' and more of the small 'Don Quixote' type windmills. Arriving at our free stopover was a bit of a disappointment as a funfair occupied the parking spot! It looked a great stop! We parked up the hill and walked around the town and decided that it would have been a good place to visit but not from where we had to stay. We had already decided on Option 'B' and 'C'. So another hours drive to Setubal. Having arrived our first task was filling with diesel (quite cheap at €1.32!). We drove through a busy city arriving at the waterside. A great parking spot with the sea literally across the road, a lovely view. This is the birthplace of 'The Special One' - Jose Mourinho. We sat on the wall with a beer in hand watching a colourful sunset before a simple dinner. Then chilled until sleep time.
Saturday 5th October (Day 45)
We had a 'small' big boys breakfast with English bacon (getting near to all being used). Then a stroll around the corner to one of the largest indoor markets in Portugal. Fish, veg and meat being the main items. I have never really considered the size a swordfish can be, but close up, I can say very big. We then found the tourist office and got a map of Setubal. Some nutter built a fortress on top of the hill. It is a steep hill (very) so we had to walk up to it - only 25 degrees so quite cold really! Having said that it is a lovely fortress with a chapel with 'azulejo' tiles a feature of Portugal. Great views over the city and a lovely coffee overlooking the surroundings served by a Madagascan man who had just moved here from .....Cardiff. Apparently the weather is nicer here! We returned to ground zero and strolled along the squares and walkways which were really lovely. Setubal is a very pleasant place. We stopped in a square and had lunch before strolling off again. Making our way to the ferry we paid €15.40 for the two of us return on the passenger ferry to Troia. It is only about a mile away but to drive to it so a journey of about 80km. There we walked to the lovely beach and just lazed about in the sunshine. After an hour or so we strolled further around the beach. (Troia is surrounded on three sides by a wide sandy beach with nice shallow waters, mostly protected from any bad weather.) Then back to the ferry to have a beer, as the bars in Troia were in the shade. A pint of beer in a jug in Setubal, overlooking the bay, before returning to the motorhome for dinner.
Sunday 6th October (Day 46)
Much as Setubal is nice (and we had stopped in a great spot) it is time to move on. While Chris sorted the motorhome I walked to the market and got some meat and bread - the meat is so nice looking and at good prices also. Then a quick breakfast and of we go to to Sintra which is just the other side of Lisbon. We do, at the moment, intend to go to Lisbon but we know a lot of places, like museums and galleries, close there on Mondays, so Sintra it is. Sintra is a slightly testing place to take the motorhome with narrow streets and tight turns but, although we were going to stay at the parking area of Sintra FC, that is a bit out of town. Anyway a challenge is always welcome! We found a parking spot quite easy and less than 400m from the main part of town. Walking back in we started at the Tourist Info Office and got a map and an idea of what to see. We started at the National Palace of Sintra. A most beautiful building that Queen Maria used. Then around 1910 (?) Portugal became a Republic. Poor old queenie had to move .... to Italy, well I suppose she took umbrage. Anyway the palace had some great 'azulejo' tiling (a feature around this whole area) and the ceilings were unbelievable. One room had a huge chandelier and all we two 'peasants' could think of was Del Boy, Rodney and Grandad! Following this we took a stroll around the steep, narrow, winding streets and alleyways absorbing the hubbub of activity. (Although it is elections in Portugal today we saw nowhere that they could vote - maybe it is mainly electronic. Certainly nothing indicating a building to vote in.) We strolled back to the motorhome for lunch and to feed the parking machine. Then we bought a bus ticket which is 'hop on - hop off' for all buses. This is because wanted to visit the 'Castelo dos Montros' and 'Palacio da Pena'. Well this was a mistake on three counts. Firstly, it was mid afternoon and it was soon apparent that both locations would need much more time. Secondly the bus also was crammed with tourists and an uncomfortable experience and, thirdly, we found out the walk is really not a bad one. Eventually we arrived at the top and decided that the castle was the best option for today. It really is a good castle with scant H&S and a dominating position over the city. Photo opportunities galore. It is built of a fairly white rock and the mountain is also a white colour. When the full moon shines on it the rock acts as a light. A king, long past, called the town St Cynthia after the goddess of the moon because of this lighting effect. From that the word gets mucked about with and the town is now called Sintra. We had seen the queues for the bus to go backdown and didn't relish them - indeed knowing what I now know I would have walked up as, although steep, it is not too much of a challenge and a pleasant walk as we found walking down. A beer and a bit of shopping before returning to our home and driving the 3km to the footy ground where we parked and are staying for €7.
Monday 7th October (Day 47)
We are at liberty to stay in the car park until 6.00pm. So a bacon butty and a walk into town - about two miles. Part way there a tuk tuk came along and I hailed it. €20 to take us up to the Palais dos Pena, back up the hill past the castle. We decided yesterday to go up by tuk tuk for the experience. Well our informative guide was mad; overtaking on single track roads weaving through slow moving traffic etc. That said it was a fun and enjoyable ride. He gave us lots of information about what to do / see in the palace grounds and it proved to all be good advice, as it made the visit much easier and enjoyable. Having entered the grounds there was a long queue for the bus to take you up to the palace itself. So off we walked and ten minutes we were there arriving as the bus did with the first (small) part of the queue we would have been in. Then it was a queue to get into the palace. Not a long one but this was to be the pattern for the palace visit. That said the slow walk up and seeing the building unfold was magical. The other benefit we found of the queues was (a) it ensured you missed nothing walking through the palace and (b) it hid you for a few sneaky photos. (For some reason photos are not allowed except in the winter!) The building was enchanting and that was the watchword for the day. Leaving the palace we found the chapel and a wall walk with more stunning views and photo opportunities. Our next place to visit was the 'Chalet'. To get there we strolled through the grounds which were great. Ferdinand II wanted the woods around to be like the Amazon and had trees shipped from Brazil - imagine the effort and expense. The result is great though. When the monarchy was disbanded (?) the then Countess lived in this chalet until she died. More of her later. The chalet was really unusual with lots of cork everywhere and the decor amazing also - no - enchanting. Anyway back to the Countess. First a history lesson; King Ferdinand II married a 16 year old when he was 20. This queen died aged 34 giving birth to the 11th child - see TV does have its good points. Seven of these children died of Typhoid. Back to the Countess; well actually she wasn't she was of Swiss origin and an opera singer. Eventulally she sang in Lisbon and Ferdinand II fell in love with her. Those around the King would not let Ferdy marry a commoner. So they 'carried on in secret'. Eventually Ferdy's German family made her a countess so the marriage could go ahead. He died some time later and the monarchy ceased. The Countess of Elda and her niece were allowed to move into the chalet. Many years later,in the chalet, on her death beds the Countess told the niece that she was really her daughter from the 'naughty time before marriage'. Sounds like a good plot for a tv series. Next was the stables followed by the Valley of the lakes. Leaving the grounds we had a different walk back down from yesterday which was more of a hike and challenging in places but more enjoyable as well. It took us past Villa Sasseti which you could only see from the outside. Back safely down we had lunch before a stroll around the shops and then the forty minute walk back to the motorhome. We had decided to stay one more night here and go to the Lisbon stop tomorrow. Only 17500 steps today much less than the last few days. Tea was a simple affair as we had eaten well at lunchtime and then, quite tired, bed.
Tuesday 8th October (Day 48)
Well the joys of Motorhome travelling is that you an easily change your plans. After breakfast (sausages in a roll) we ensured we were 'full and empty' before setting course for a campsite just a bus trip outside Lisbon. We were almost there, and had been discussing the visit to Lisbon, when we thought we might not go. So we parked up in a shopping outlet car park and looked again at what we would be visiting / cost / etc etc. Our decision was major attractions churches / castles / art / towers etc in a city with all the costs was not for us for the moment. (We can always visit another time.) I am sure many people will say we missed a right royal treat but that we will not know - at least for this trip. We also took stock of our clothing as no washing had been done for quite a while and we decided we can manage ok for a few more days. We had some places on the way up the Portuguese coast that we had earmarked to visit. These places we had got from a magazine and also from speaking to a Portuguese resident who agreed they were good choices. So, from the edge of Lisbon we were off north. Our first stop by lunch time, and overnight, was a place called Obidos. We parked up in the Aire with half a dozen others and after lunch walked into the town. This is a lovely town all white painted houses on the hill surrounded by the most complete castle wall I have seen in a long time. Narrow street, some steep and, while there was a church and the main castle to visit, they were pleasant and free! We stopped at a cafe for a drink and an almond 'cake' and looked around the shops. It should be said that the weather from the 26 degrees of the last few days had changed. Only around 20 degrees and overcast. It was something we expected as were were (a) moving north and (b) so close to Atlantic weather systems but to see this part of Portugal without crowds and / or steaming hot we are content with. We returned to our home on wheels for a bit of a rest as again 11,000 steps were competed so far - with more to come this evening. After a curry meal in the home we returned to look at the town in the darkness.
Wednesday 9th October (Day 49)
So another day another place! After breakfast we moved off on a short trip to Sao Martinho do Puerto. No idea about the place but it looked like it might be nice to visit, at least on the map. It must be said that the roads, by all accounts get worse as you move north and this has not been our experience to date. One or two maybe but overall quite good. On the way we stopped at a supermarket which had clothes washing machines in the car park. As we quite soon needed to do some washing (11 days since our last wash) this seemed ideal. Wash clothes while shopping. It should be said though that the machine beat us and we gave up. Arriving at Sao Martinho we found it to be a lovely bay almost totally protected from the Atlantic making it a delight for beach time. Unfortunately there was strong wind and the water was not overly warm. It would have been idyllic a few weeks ago. We strolled around and had a coffee before moving to our night time destination. It is an ACSI campsite so we can do the clothes washing, Camping Vale Paraiso Natur Park, at Nazare´ . It is a great site with full faciltites at €18 a night; restaurant, shop, take away, pool, laundry etc. We arrived at 12.30 and by 13.30 washing was done and drying on the line. Lunch was had and then we left to go to Sitio (a town overlooking Nazare´). It was quite a walk taking about 45 minutes to Sitio, a very pleasant place. It is the old town complete with bullring. A nice square with views over Nazare´. We took the 'Ascendo' into the main town (or Funicular). Then a nice stroll around with a beer and a few purchases. We did not fancy the long walk back to the site - all up hill. We enquired about getting a bus but the only one was 16.30 giving us little time so we caught a cab. Only €6 including a tip, well worth it. Arriving back the washing was dry and steak and chips were cooked before sitting down and planning our next move tomorrow to Coimbra.
