Thursday 11th October (Day 43)
Today was a day of in decisions. "Shall we will go to Salzburg by motorway or non motorway". Many options, ie. part motorway only, discussed and nothing actually agreed as a final plan. In the end Salzburg won out by motorway; then part way we decided on something different 'Let's go to Sankt Gillan by non-motorway' and stop when we see somewhere nice". Well what a journey. It broke the 'rule' of no more than 3 hours driving but the route Was fabulous and made it seem less. Over mountains, twisty roads - some even with more than 180 degree bends - beautiful countryside, stark mountain scenery it had the lot. We ended up on Wolfgang See (a lake) at Camping Romantik, parked 10m from the lake with views to die for. Dinner was early as we are in a deep valley so the sun goes quite early.
Friday 12th October (Day 44)
A bright start to the day with 22 degrees the forecast. We started out on the bikes. The intention was to catch a ferry to St Wolfsburg and cycle back to the site.However, we missed the ferry turns so did it the other way around. Stobl was the first small town and a very small town it was, but pleasant. Next was St Woflsburg about 11 miles from the site. Here we parked up and walked about fascinated with the quaintness. Houses bedecked with flowers on their balconies; National Dress worn by a lot of the men and women and, again, another church worth a visit. Here unfortunately Chris decided to drop her phone rendering fairly useless. A coffee was had and then we went to the 'people, bike and dog ferry'. It was a request stop! Press a button and wait for the ferry to come and take you across, about £8 for two people and bikes. Back to the site and lunch and then a cycle in the other direction to Sankt Gillen, where Mozart's mother was born. Another town to stroll around in. By the lake was a fountain that moved and gyrated giving patterns with the water jets and while there a bridal party arrived for photos with the fountain in the background. Nearly disaster! The bride and groom stood on the floating pontoon and the guests all walked on as well, intending to stand around the bride. The photographer was shouting instructions which soon became apparent was along the lines of "move away from the bride". This was because the ends of the pontoon was raising up out of the water and the middle sinking. Disaster was averted before it was too late. After a while we cycled back to the site to laze around (yes again). Dinner was cooked and the World Championship of Rummicub had its first round which was marginally won 3-2 by me, but with a good slice of luck.
Saturday 13th October (Day 45)
We paid up last night and by Just after 9.00am we were on the road to Salzburg. The satnav wanted to take us on an 80km journey. Ignoring it we drove along the lake and eventually the Satnav 'lady' changed her mind and only 34km was required to the destination. The reason was a 3.5t limit (we are over that) BUT it was on a side road. We had a good drive and pulled into a Stellplatze just outside of the city. For 21€ we had a pitch, electrics, toilets and shower with very hot water and full filling and emptying facilities all spotlessly clean. We made lunch and caught the 21 bus into town. We had purchased a 'Salzburg Card' giving entry to lots of places and all bus rides also. The two cards cost 74€ but just two days bus ride accounts for about a third of that price. Arriving in town we enquired abut the river boat ride but it was cancelled due to low water levels on the River Ljubianca. "Maybe 5.00pm, Try later" (We did and it was cancelled - tomorrow also.) We walked around and took a lift to the top of the Monchsberg Hill overlooking the city whch afforded great views. We also went into the Museum of Modern Art there which, as most modern art does left us untouched - yes we are obviously Philistines. Back down to street level and next was a guided tour of the Festival Hall. It used to be the stable area and part was dug out of the rock with balconies and viewing places for dignitaries. In another, newer, part the backstage were hewn out of the rock face using explosions as this was in the 1950's. Another part that originally was mountain was over 100m long by 45m, a lot of rock. It was a pleasant but not stunning place to walk around, although I am sure a production would be brilliant. Next a visit to the catacombs. I thought they would be underground but no; they are again hewn into the rock and a steep set of stairs access them. One stone was dated 477ad. From here we went to the birth place of Mozart and saw the house he was brought up in; again interesting and something that needed to be done but not riveting. It was then time to rest the feet and have a beer / coffee. All these places we visited were included in the 'Salzburg Card' and to date we had 'saved' 30€ each plus 11€ for the bus so more than breaking even. We walked about and then caught the bus back. It may sound like we were underwhelmed by Salzburg but actually the city is great and the places were, perhaps, better than I describe. Tomorrow is another busy day though as we sat and planned the order of visits to maximise our chance of visiting the 'main' bits still to be visited. There is so much that we might not manage it, only time will tell.
Sunday 14th October (Day 46)
So the plan was to start early. As a result we were up, for a Sunday, earlier than any Sunday this year. We picked up some pre-ordered croissants and made them, up and by 8.21am we were on the bus into Salzburg. So croissants on the 'lovers Lock' bridge. Next was the first visit of the day to the 'Panorama Museum' which detailed the great fires that Salzburg and the immediate area had suffered from 1818 onwards, which eventually led to the formation of a volunteer brigade from the local gymnastic club, because you needed to be fit. Then another funicular ride up the the castle and a pleasant hour or so walking about and seeing the views, the puppets, State Rooms, and large musical organ) it filled a small room).Back down to 'ground level' and we visited the Doms Quarters and State room; Church stuff. Then some food was needed so a quick burger meal sitting with two Canadians from near to Vancouver. A pleasant chat but they had traveled quite a way and saw nothing really of the city. We then caught a bus to the cable car to go to the top of the Unterberg Mountain, 1853m up. From here on a clear day, you are able to see Berteschgarden - The Eagles Nest known for the retreat of one Adolf Hitler. It wasn't clear but we could see the mountain it was on. We still had great views and a walk before queueing for 45 minutres to get down. The idea was then to visit Hellbrun Palace but the wait made us short of time so we continued into the city. We then went to the Marabelle Gardens and Marble hall before catching a bus back home quite tired after around 23,000 steps. It shows that careful traveller's with good planning (and a fairly small city) can do well. The 'Salzburg Card' cost 37€ a person and to date we have had over 100€ worth of value, with tomorrow until 1.00pm to add to that. Good value indeed.
Monday 15th October (Day 47)
Today we leave Austria bound for Germany. First, however, we drove to the Schloss Helbrum (Helbrun Palace). It is only about 9km south of Salzburg. We soon arrived and got our tickets; still free using the 'Salzburg Card'. The tour of the Trick Fountains starts at 11.00am so we had 30 minutes t go into the main building and look around. Quirky would be the way to sum it up. Then we joined about 40-50 others on the fountain tour. This is the Disneyland of the 1600's and people flocked to see it. The area is fed by springs that are slightly warm so no snow settles. An Archbishop Markus Sitticus designed it and had it built. It all works on water pressure from a tank high on a hill. The water makes puppets move and also surprises guests, both in the 1600's and now, with secret jets of water that gets you wet, fortunately the temperature was a nice 24 degrees. It was clearly very clever for the time and unique. Up the top of a steephill was a folklore museum so we had to go for it. A climb it certainly was and the museum was interesting and in a small castle that The Archbishop Sitticus had built in 30 days for the visit of an Austrian Prince. This took our spending on travel and places we visited to over 100€ each for an outlay of 37€. Back down and we walked around the lakes back to the motorhome. We then set off homeward (slowly). Back through Salzburg and out northwest towards Munich. About five miles from Salzburg we entered Germany but there was no border to identify exactly where. The journey then took about three hours including a shopping stop. At one point we stopped in a long traffic queue and saw vehicles turning around and then an air ambulance. We turned around also and found an alternative route through some quaint villages to arrive about 1km on from whatever had occurred. We eventually parked in the car park of the 1972 Munich Olympic Regatta site. Earlier Chris had noticed that a brake light wasn't working so I went to where we put the spares to see if it could be fixed. These spares were bought years ago when we were caravanning and have travelled with us thousands of miles, actually tens of thousands. Not only did the set have a bulb of the type needed but it still worked. After fixing this we took a walk and found a large lake with a pleasant walkway around it and then walked the length of the 2km regatta course and, with the sun setting, it looked really nice. To be truthful in 46 years since the Olympics the facilities have got tired but are still well used by the locals. This was a defining moment in that Chris stated "I am ready to go home"; various reasons including all three boys in the UK this weekend. So the ferry is booked for Friday.
Tuesday 16th October (Day 48)
A good night despite some noise from the motorway. Breakfast etc sorted and off we went. Programmed in to the Satnav was 'Dachau Concentration Camp. If ever a place should be a 'must see' it was here. Mans inhumanity to man was personified in this blue print camp for many others to follow. The thousands who died and suffered here was heartbreaking and those who 'support' the extremists be they 'left', 'right' or 'religious' need to hang their head in shame. The majority of visitors were German college youths but all from around Europe should have this on their curriculum. The treatment of all political, religious, sexual, criminal, was just unbelievable. As J. F. Kennedy said "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing". This is clearly a message being lost today. After this visit we set our goals on 'Calais'. We would never make it in one go but a good target with the majority of it being motorway. Some roadworks on the way caused a few issues. We then decided to sort somewhere to stop. We prefer this method, We drive and then when we feel we have driven enough we find somewhere. We stopped at a place called Speyer. It was on a spit of land with the river one side and a marina the other. Also this town was the base for 'Lufthansa' and they had their own runway and a building with a full size jet on the top. We stopped at around 5.00pm and sat out as it was 23 degrees. Dinner was the first good steak since leaving the UK before a small libation and the continuation of the World Series of Rummmikub before bed.
Wednesday 17th October (Day 49)
No plans for today except we needed to empty the loo somewhere. A place was found along the route (well sort of). We had to drive through Mannheim, a large city, where we took a wrong turn or two. At one point this brought us under the scrutiny of the Polizei, well we were driving along the trolley bus route. Fortunately, we were not stopped but we were in the Umweltzone but had paid for the sticker. Driving in this zone without the sticker results in heavy fines. We bought the sticker as it was only a few euros despite not expecting to enter this Umweltzone, so prudence paid off. Eventually we extricated ourselves from this city and found the dump station. Once all sorted it was off towards Calais, via Luxembourg for cheap(ish) fuel. 'Posh' diesel at 1.28€ (£1.15). Nicely filled to the brim and off again with a stop for lunch where we discussed where we were going to stop and what we wanted to do. Chris wants moules and chips before we go home so the plan was to stop near to the sea tomorrow giving her the best chance of this. So for today it was drive and in an hour or so use an app on the phone to find a stop. Chris found one on the River Meuse, actually right on the riverside with the front of the motorhome almost over the edge, in a Belgium town called Huy. After the drive, which was quite long with roadworks and issues, we went for a walk for an hour along the river watching the large boats ply their trade before returning for dinner.
Thursday 18th October (Day 50)
So today's decision was a 3 hour drive to Calias using motorway or 6 hours not using it. The latter won. So off we jolly well went. This choice was because we like driving through the small towns and countryside And only use the motorway as a last resort. It was a pleasant route but with a few kicks in the teeth. 1. The main road, in the direction we wanted to go, was closed for roadworks. So we follow the diversion signs. Immediately the road was no more than nine foot wide with cobbled stones that the Romans would have rejected. 3km later things got a bit better, marginally, and by 5km we were back on the main route. 2. Another diversion. We had to wait for a damn great digger to move a bit so we could squeeze past and then take the diversion. Not a bad road but narrow and wiggly. 3. Red traffic lights at an alternate way working road works. How long can lights stay red? Eight plus minutes. However we entertained by the antics of three workmen as they 'worked'. We ended up not just giggling but laughing out loud at their antics. On we eventually went to a shopping stop near to our destination. Only to find that L'Eclerc had 2.8m height barriers (we are 3.1m). We eventually parked up and shopped and then drove the 2km to our destination at Bergues. As we turned into the stopover we realised we had been here before a couple of years ago. So in the end a pleasant day, despite the diversions which were now, thankfully, in the past.... or so we thought. We started to walk into town to find that some workmen to perhaps friends of the previous ones we were laughing at, had dug up the road and both pavements and placed machines, piles of rock and barriers in our way. So we had a diversion on foot of over a kilometre. Entering the town we were intent on looking for a good restaurant for this evening and found a couple of possibles. Back to the motorhome for an aperitif. Then we walked to a grill we had opted for. Upon entering we were the only patrons but soon it became full and buzzing. Our food was cooked over an open wood ember fire and was really lovely, with the added benefit of warmth and the smell of wood smoke. By 9,00pm we were back with rough plans for tomorrow.
Friday 19th October (Day 51)
We were up sorted and on our way surprisingly earlier arriving at a nearby Lidl before it opened! What Chris wanted they did not have.Then on to City Europe for the last minute couple of 'must haves'. Slight issue, again with roadworks' added ten to fifteen minutes on the journey but we still had plenty of time. City Europe has never been so empty. A few items purchased but the main ones not present and we drove to the port. We arrived and literally drove straight on to the ferry, catching the 10.45am instead of the 11.35am we had booked. A result. A uneventful crossing on a near empty boat and then the drive home; good except for the usual crap at the Dartford Tunnel which took about 25 minutes to get through.