Thursday 4th October (Day 36)
The only thing really good about Camping Selce was a washing machine that took two full loads So many pitches are sloping! uneven or totally in shade. So we left paying our dues and not even bothering to get water or empty. We had selected a site at Krk on the Island of Krk. We had been to this town three years ago but it rained so hard we didn't see much at all of it. Anyway less than an hour we were at Camping Adriatic just outside Krk. We were made to feel very welcome and the site, while big, did not seem overly so but had a good 'buzz' to it. We selected a pitch near to everything; sea, heated Infiniti swimming pool, restaurant, shops, bar and wash and toilet faciltites that were amazing. There were even diswashers at 60p a go. So we settled in and quickly made use of the pool. Afterwards we lay on a circular double couch with a pull up hood to shade your face / eyes. Lunch followed and then we walked into Krk. This was a pleasant walk along the tree lined shore around two bays. Entering the old town we strolled the narrow lanes and paid a quick visit to the quite bland cathedral. Further strolling along the harbour and visiting a market before a walk to the top of the town. Here, although locked, was the church of St Michaels. Well it was called that but in the 11th century got renamed 'Our Lady of Health' in the hope that the Cholera epidemic would abate. (Nothing to indicate how successful that was.) By now it was gone 4.00pm so we took the footpath back to the site for a rest. 6.00pm saw us putting on our glad rags for a meal on the site. We were joining a couple from Yorkshire, Dave and Gina, and another couple we have not yet met from the New Forest, Bridget and Colin. Dave and Gina are full timing having recently sold their house, while the other couple are, like us, just travelling about and returning then to the 'nest'. We had a pleasant evening chatting and having good food and by 10.00pm were back in our respective motorhomes.
Friday 5th October (Day 37)
Another sunny day with temperatures around 24 degrees. After breakfast we had a tidy up and got the bicycles out of the garage area. Off we went on cycle route 6, or 6.1 or 6.2 as the signs couldn't really make up their mind! It was a stoney road but not too bad and followed the shore line for quite a way. We then turned inland and the scenery became very barren and alien. All along the way there were dozens of butterflies - mainly tortoiseshell. After a few wrong turns and about an hour or so we found ourselves back at the road which leads to the camp site. We decided to cycle into Krk along the roads which are quite empty of vehicles. A harbourside cafe 'Called' us and a beer was had while people and boat watching. Then it was a cycle back via a supermarket for a couple of items we needed. Lunch and then down to the beach area to sun bathe, doze and swim in the sea. I went snorkelling and found there to be more variety of fish and many hundred more fish than all the previous swims totalled so had a pleasant hour doing that. The weather for tomorrow has the threat of both rain and thunderstorms and by just after 5.00pm the whole horizon had grey clouds moving towards us and within half an hour the sun had disappeared behind them. Back to the Motorhome for dinner and some more of the 'Lost' series.
Saturday 6th October (Day 38)
The weather forecast is not good - thunder and rain but still warm. As the receptionist said "It can sometimes miss us". After breakfast it was grey and not overly promising so a good clean of motorhome was in order. While this was underway there was a serious exodus from the site of mainly Germans. We got a map with cycle routes and planned after lunch to go to Melinska a cycle of about 10 miles each way. Waterproofs packed off we went. It was a pleasant cycle following the main road up the islands 'spine' but on our own cycle path. A roller coaster ride with ups and downs a plenty. We cycled in dry weather but the cycle path was wet showing that rain had fallen and the sky was looking still like it would. The last two plus miles into the Melinska port was downhill so the return looked less inviting. In the sunshine the town may have been a pretty place but with the grey sky and matching water it did not excite us much. A coffee overlooking the harbour was required to fortify us and then the ride back which was quite uneventful despite the occasional light rain which did not amount to much at all. It was enough, though, to get us inside, once back, and just relax.
Sunday 7th October (Day 39)
The troop of monkeys returned last night and used the roof as a drum. Either that or the rain was so heavy .... for hours! We were awake late this morning catching up on some 'zzzz's'. It was like a river had passed by. Everyone who was up were hosing down chairs, tables floor mats even the Motorhome itself had mud from the ground almost a metre up. So British sausages in a Croatian 'French' stick for breakfast. Then a slow clean up and discussions whether to leave today or stay until tomorrow as, sort of, planned. Eventually the 'stay' won out as it meant we could, hopefully, get things dry to put away. After lunch we opted for a cycle ride as it had brightened up. Vrbnik was the destination about 12kms each way. What we didn't know was that each way there was. A dirty big hill almost 4km long and steep enough to make our ears go 'pop'. We eventually arrived and locked up the bikes and walked into the old town which was, probably, the most old looking old town of all the old towns we had to date visited. Every twist and turn revealed an old, an sometimes dilapidated building. Vrbnik (remember Croatians pronounce every letter) is the main wine producing area of Krk island. We stopped overlooking the sea and had a local red wine which we didn't rate much. It was then the mammoth cycle back up the one in four hill in parts but with the nice long downhill whizz after. For the evening we went to the campsite restaurant and had a very pleasant and quite cheap meal.
Monday 8th October (Day 40)
So a prompt start and by just after 9.00am we said our goodbyes to Dave and Gina. Then a quick Lidl stop and off to Slovenia and the capital, Ljubiana. What a great drive though. No motorways for us but twisty roads up through the mountains with the trees turning to various oranges, browns and reds. A stop before getting to the border to off load a few Kina at a petrol station and then we sailed through the border posts. 1.00pm saw us pulling up at the stop for tonight and possibly tomorrow. Gostina-Livada is a restaurant with a car park. Free to stay if you eat or 10€ if you don't. First some lunch and then we strolled into the city. We had few expectations about what Ljubiana would be like but found it to be an absolute delight. It is a compact city centre with no traffic except the odd motor scooter and a walker and cyclists dream. The old town is set either side of the the River Ljubljianca. The old buildings, wide streets and squares. Lots of people sitting at bars overlooking the river with wine, coffee, food etc gave a good buzz to the city. We visited the main bridges. Butchers Bridge, Cobblers Bridge, Three Bridges and Dragon Bridge. Butchers bridge is named as in the 17th century it was where butchers were centred. Cobblers Bridge - well guess! The three bridges are exactly that. The main traffic bridge had two others built either side in the 1930's for pedestrians. Dragon Bridge has four dragons on the four corners and is on the national flag. The dragon lived in the marsh and depending upon which tale you wish to believe either Jason (he of the Argonauts killed it for the townspeople or some Saint called George) It is also said that if a virgin walked across the bridge either the dragon wags its tail or the alternative version is one of the dragons comes to life to kill the Virgin and if she escapes she is pure of heart. We saw no tail wagging to maiden chasing while at the bridge! The market was visited and then the cathedral of St Nicholas which was free to enter and had a real 'wow' factor to it. There was also a political demonstration taking place with canoeists and a dragon boat on the river and others blowing whistles and banging drums by the river side. All to do with some proposed hydro power project. We stopped for a beer overlooking the river before a weary trudge back. Back again tomorrow. For dinner we went to the restaurant and had two lovely pizzas but they were HUGE and we both struggled to eat them.
PHOTO Dragon Bridge' Castle, Cathedral and Chris with beer
Tuesday 9th October (Day 41)
Well what a day! After a simple breakfast we walked into town to get a tourist map (again - I lost yesterdays) and a 'Ljubiana Card'. This entitled us, for 27€, to 24 hour access to all buses, the wifi and over 25 attractions. We started in the Museum of Illusions. A simple idea which children would really enjoy and adults also, despite the fact many of the illusions are well know to 'grown ups'. On the way back to the start point for a city tour we popped into a church and was blown way with the interior. This was followed by a two hour walking tour of Ljubiana by a guide, Vincent, who was clearly in love with Ljubiana but also put facts over in an interesting way. Part way we went to a restaurant to sample two traditional dishes; one a sausage with horseradish or mustard and the other a dessert with a type of pastry filled with nuts. The first very nice the second ok (a bit sweet). This Tour finished with a funicular ride up to Grad Castle and entry to it also. Here, not only was the castle open to us but the main tower, giving great views over the city, a museum of Puppetry, a Museum of Dragons and an art exhibition. We then rode down again and searched for a simple snack. We shared a panini and tried a cream cake thing that was meant to be a 'must have', well it was much too sweet. Next a Chris favourite, a boat ride along the river. Apart from seeing the city and outside from a different viewpoint we also saw a large coypu in the city area. This was followed by a coffee and wine at a riverside restaurant sitting in the sunshine before we took a slow walk out of the old town, via some unusual buildings to the Union Brewery. Here, after a beer, we had to endure the 'Brewery Experience'. Just three of us, Chris, myself and Troy from Illinois (USA) on a tour of the brewery and museum. Peter our guide was great. Good information in lighthearted way with bottle tops to win for correct answers to questions plus some more to find on the way around. Troy beat us hands down. We then returned to the bar and all four of us sat and chatted and all but Peter had a meal. Troy had been to 51 countries so far, not all on this trip, and expected to return to the USA for Thanksgiving. He was traveling light with just a carry on bag. After a few drinks we left him and Peter the guide still going through the beer list. We walked back to find a bus home to save our weary legs which we did without too much hassle. Ljubiana today has been the best day so far of the 41 days we have been away and we will return to this city and the surrounding countryside again. As an aside and to upset some UK students and parents. Basic tax in Slovenia is 40%. Health insurance a month is 24€ and to top it up to cover everything another 28€. Student fees are 34€ A YEAR. Student accommodation in halls of residence are 80€ a month. Also students can register their mobile on a scheme and it gives the cheap meals in restaurants. The offer can be used three times a day and the average three course meal is around 7-10€.
Wednesday 10th October (Day 42)
Today we woke up to quite thick fog so we were lucky with yesterday's visit to Ljubiana. Our plan was a short drive and an easy day at a Thermal Spa at a place called Snovik. However, yesterday the brewery tour guide suggested we visit Kamnik. It was on the way so a detour was required. (He also mentioned another place where the street fountains dispensed lager - that is for another time.) So all sorted and off around Ljubianca for Kamnik. The ring road was busy for Slovenian standards but to most Western Europeans traffic was light. 50 minutes saw us pull up at a car park at Kamnik. It was a 'one horse (street) town. The buildings were well kept and there most famous general was born in this town the same year as Churchill (1874) and there were displays of both men. For such a small town there were three churches, all quite grand looking, and a friary. After a short walk we had a coffee outside in the sunshine as we were now in the foothills of the mountain ranger known as Kamnik Savinica and had driven out of the foggy flat plains. We went into one church on top of a hill spending little time in the church as there was a funeral soon to start but the cemetery around it was nothing short of beautiful. Full of flowers and well tended graves indeed only two could we find that needed some 'tlc. Back down in the Main Street we visited the friary again a pleasant place and then the 'small castle' which was just that. There were two others the 'big castle' and one on the top of a very steep hill called the 'high castle'. After the castle we needed a couple of shopping items as we thought we would be away from shops very soon and overnight. It was then off to Snovik Thermal Spa. Only 20 minutes found us parked up in a pleasant level car park surrounded by the mountains. After lunch we bought two day tickets for seniors and entered the establishment. Warm pools and jacuzzi spas were the next three plus hours activity interspersed with some reading and lazing around. By 6.00pm we were back at the motorhome for something to eat. By 8.00pm we were back in the spa for another 90 minutes before they closed. This time there were no lights on in the pool area except a few actually under the water. It gave a nice chilled out feel to the swim. We don't think H&S in the UK would have allowed it as some parts were quite dark but that is because H&S has been taken over by idiots in the UK.
