Thursday 20th September (Day 22)
I woke up salivating at the thought of breakfast. Thick cut 'English' bacon sandwiches. "Oh I forgot to take the bacon out of the freezer", was Chris' first comment. Not a happy chicken! So we decided to have a quick cereal for breakfast and catch the little boat over to Korcula the main town on Korcula Island - one of the biggest in the Adriatic, not the most catching accord. This being the spur of the moment meant we went without the other four traveller's. Anyway 9.20am saw us in 30 degree heat sitting on the dock in the bay waiting for the ferry with thirteen others .... and five dogs. Eventually it arrived, as advertised at 9.30, and we piled on. A 40 minute trip was very pleasant with the views of the azure sea, lush wooded lower hills and rocky outcrops of the top of the mountains. A gentle breeze also helped keep us cool(ish). Arriving in the small harbour we disgorged ourselves and scattered to places we all wanted to visit. It is known as a 'mini Dubrovnik' and the comparison holds some water. We entered the old city from the harbour area through, not surprisingly, a gate known as the 'Land Gate' which was quite impressive. Like Dubrovnik there is one main 'street' which is narrow in comparison to Dubrovnik's and off this are smaller streets of varying steepness. It is designed like this to reduce the effect of the 'Bora' wind when it blows. We had a list of places to visit but some were shut: the museum and three churches. One thing of note was the n/umber of places called "Marco Polo (this)' or 'Marco Polo (that). It turned out he was born in Korcula. At the age of 17 he went wth his father and uncle on the first of his travels voyage to China (in 1271). We wandered aimlessly around just soaking up the atmosphere and had a rest in a cafe overlooking the water. A visit to the cathedral of St Marks finished the morning and we returned to the waterside to get a loaf for lunch and the ferry back arriving at 1.30pm in time to eat.
Friday 21st September (Day 23)
Salivating is over! TWO bacon butties for breakfast - lush. Then we decided to go for a bike ride, just Chris and I. By just after 10.00am we were off and about a mile away (all downhill) I realised I had forgotten the keys to lock the bikes so leaving Chris I rode back and got them. We then rode into the nearest town, Orebic, intending to continue on the Viganj. As we entered the town we saw Eric, who was meant to be walking up one of the nearby mountains. He was complaining about a dog that was following him. (We humoured him as there was no dog to be seen.) He then produced photographic evidence so we believed him. As there was nothing we could do we said our goodbyes and cycled on. Having left the town we saw a sign to the right (up hill) to a 'Panorama Restaurant' and a church. Always willing to go up we opted for this, which proved bad, then good, then bad, then good. The first bad was the steepness of the road with hairpin bends. Even the electric bikes with them in lowest gear was a challenge that, for some of the way, beat us. Then the good. We reached the Samostan church and museum. After resting for a while in the shade and drinking much water we paid our entrance to a lovely small museum dedicated to the maritime history of the peninsula and the loveliest little church we have seen in a long time. Outside we had our photo taken by a helpful English lady who, unfortunately, partially covered the lens with her finger. When we realised we got a German to retake it. From here we cycled on an undulating road and soon arrived at the Panorama Restaurant with quite stunning views. Being the only patrons we expected prompt service but it was definitely in the 'whenever' manner. We had Turkish coffee and watched the boats and ferries going to and fro. Chris did not really enjoy the coffee as it was real Turkish. Then off again and downhill. Soon the metalled road gave way to gravel but all was still ok. Then the gravel road became a path - downhill and quite steep. Here was the second 'bad'. Although only about a kilometre it was a get off and not push but brake due to the steepness. Eventually we regained the main road and the last 'good'. A lovely cycle along the waterside stopping for a beer before getting back just after 2.00pm. Lunch then a swim to cool off and sunbathe. On our return to the motorhome Chris got her hair trimmed by Sue while I showered.
Saturday 22nd September (Day 24)
So late yesterday the decisions arrived at to move on. So by just after 9.00am we were off. A short 10km drive to Trpanj to catch the 11.30am ferry. Needless to say we arrived early parked up and got some bread for lunch and then all of us sat and watched the world go by over a coffee in a harbour side cafe. The ferry duly arrived and they squeezed everyone on and the hours trip to Ploce was underway. It was a lovely hot day so we sat at the top and just enjoyed the view. 12.30pm saw us on the road and a 30 minute drive to Camping Viter at Zaostrag. Right on the beach with no steps to go down, indeed were were beach front parked. Having said this we misjudged the pitch size and both Resa and us are on the same pitch! Lunch soon followed and then we sat out in the shade as it was boiling hot. The rest was swim, laze, swim laze until dinner then a chat over events that had occured and thoughts of future places to go before sleep.
Sunday 23rd September (Day 25)
Today we were off for a walk. The idea was a two and a half hour circular walk along the coast up through the mountains and back. However the route was not well marked and after an hour of pleasant strolling along the coast we worked out the route we were on would take about nine hours. We continued onto Dvronik where we sat and had a beer and watched ther Hvar ferry come on and load. We then walked back to the site. Still a two hour walk, which was very nice despite the top 20 degree temperature. Back at the site we had lunch and read and lay about, including a swim to cool off. While swimming I could hear some music. I eventually traced it to a group of six Germans (or Dutch) who were standing in a circle in the sea singing. It was a folk type song but they were singing in harmony - Acapella style. I swam nearer as it was lovely to hear. When I got fairly close they got to the end of the song and swam out but it was truly magical. Dinner was had and plans hatched for tomorrow - a trip to a site near Split. We telephoned them and they suggested to arrive before midday to 'guarantee' to get three spaces close together. The evening just seemed to whizz by. Tomorrow we are likely to have a day of not so good weather\ so to travel is sensible we think.
Monday 24th September (Day 26)
Well by 8.30am we were all sorted to move off. I 'took a flyer' to get in front of the other two as I drive slightly faster than them and being at the back of three motorhomes with the inevitable queue of vehicles behind us I find embarrassing. The journey to Split was along the coastal D8 road and as said many times just a pure delight, indeed if you have not been along it then put it on your 'bucket list' of things to do before you die. We stopped, well pulled over, about four times to allow the few cars behind us to pass and, unusually, were thanked almost without exception which is a rarity over here. By 11.00am we pulled up at Camping Split at Stobrec, 7km before the city of Split itself. Getting on a pitch proved to be an issue as we were allocated three next to each other but ours already had a motorhome on it. A bit of 'back to the reception back to the 'taken' pitch and we got sorted. The weather today is around 25 degrees but dark clouds are gathering. We all needed shopping but before we could leave a strong wind blew up and dust swirled everywhere, even the trees were bending. Being of the hardy type we set forth anyway and saw many people winding awnings in and securing things to prevent damage. Indeed one Motorhome had its awning completely ripped off, just the legs and frame remained. We got our shopping, well most of it as the shop was quite small and returned. Resa, Eric, Su and Alan took shelter in a cafe as it tipped it down with rain. As a German said to us at the campsite, "Yesterday it was so hot and today like a warm England". Anyway with the Very inclement Weather it meant I cooked a Pork and Mushroom Mogul Curry for the six of us to eat this evening. During a lull in the wind we went for a stroll around the site. The wind had brought some small trees down and a steel framed awning on a caravan had the poles bent to utter uselessness. We finished to the evening eating in Resa's MH and played various games until just before 11.00pm when we said goodnight.
Tuesday 25th September (Day 27)
So we are off on the bus today to go into Split, one of the best preserved places from the Roman world. 10.20am saw us disembark and our first stop? Well the market of course. A wander around the stalls and then we got to the Golden Gate entrance to the old town. Entering some reason arose of what we should do in Split. It was a bit like travelling in convoy as each person (couple) was interested in different things at different moments resulting in a slow dawdle. The agreement was to split up and meet again by the Golden Gate at 1.00pm for lunch. So Chris and I went straight off to the main central square and paid to go into the Cathedral of St Dominus, a Bishop of days gone by. Originally the Diocletian (an emperor) was buried here but he was 'moved out' and St Dominus replaced him when the church took hold. The Cathedral was quite small but full of gold and rich paintings. Next a visit to the Crypt. Here was a statue of a Roman woman, Lucy, who converted to Christianity. The Roman rulers were, well quite annoyed, as she was to marry a notable dignitary (or something; I missed over hearing that part of a guides patter). Anyhow she was, by all accounts, one of the most beautiful women in the world! She stated only God would be able to see her and she would cover herself / or withdraw from normal life. Anyhow the Emperor offered her the chance to renounce her new found religion. She refused so he ordered her eyes to be put out so even she could not view her beauty. Although this 'happened' the Virgin Mary intervened and gave her the most beautiful eyes ever. Hence the statue has her holding a plate with two eyeballs but she has eyes still in her head. A good tale or truth; who knows. Next on the agenda was a visit to the Temple of Jupiter which was a bit of a let down after the cathedral. A stroll around the narrow streets and we came upon six Acapella singers so stopped to listen. A visit to the Diocletian's Palace or more correctly the passages under what was the palace was to be undertaken. We spent an interesting half hour or so there and the size of the passageways is massive. By now it was time to meet up and go for lunch. So the next problem was where to eat. The parameters were 'sit in sun'; 'out of wind'; 'price should be reasonable'. With six of us no-one would make a decision. Eventually we sat in the shade with a slight breeze but with a reasonably priced menu (well one out of three isn't bad)! Drink served, food ordered and then the slowest service imaginable and when the food came up all the food, except mine, was at best luke warm. Eric, not normally known to complain, had his sent back and reheated. No tip for them! The afternoon was a further walk around the market before a bus back to the site. Three years ago we were in Split and it poured with rain; this time while warm the strong breeze made it less pleasurable than we would have liked: perhaps next time all will be good. Back at the site we soon ate and scuttled into a motorhome away form the wind and played card games.
Wednesday 26th September (Day 28)
Today we were off again. We sorted ourselves and checked out and the routine of filling and emptying and left by about 10.00am. Camping Rodaz at Trogir was the destination. It was only 30km away so an easy drive of about 40 minutes. A stop for a main shop (good old Lidl). Then the last 3km to the site which included about 1km of narrow roads resulting in a slow end to the journey. As we pulled into the site a young girl from the reception came out and said "three motorhomes", "You wish to be together" (we did), "Follow me we have only three spaces together left". So we drove straight in and onto three pitches overlooking the estuary. "After you are settled come to the reception with documents please". Just brilliant. A great site, if a bit too covered by trees from the sun (for some). The afternoon we spent sunbathing on, what for Croatia is a sandy beach. Stones less than 1.5cmIn size. Relaxing in the sun and swimming took the rest of the afternoon before the evening meal and a chat, which was initially outside until the breeze forced us in. We only managed to stay out due to Resa's brainwave of stretching a lillypad awning between two motorhomes.