Thursday 13th September (Day 15)
A lazy day is planned as there is nothing left to se in Senj and we did not fancy moving on. Before breakfast, at 8.55am, we put a dark load of washing on in the camp machine. We were told it took about an hour. After breakfast we sat and waited and around 10.10am went to retrieve said washing. Still not on rinse cycle. 10.30am passed, 10.40am passed, eventualy at 10.55am it appeared to have finished. However the door wouldn't open. Go to man in office. He came along and fiddled with it and set the machine going again! It was three and a half hours from first setting the machine going that our clothes were given back to us by the White Monster. While all this was going on we sat and read and cogitated on the meaning of life. Part of that was pondering on what was sadder; the fisherman on the waterside trying to catch little fish or us watching them! While engaged in this strenuous activity we saw several hundred small fish jump out of the water about four or five times to then disappear and never be seen again. So that brought us up to lunch. The afternoon was more sitting and chilling and a swim or two before the next item on the agenda; a restaurant for dinner. We were tempted into the site restaurant it has 10% discount. However, if we knew what it was like we would have gone elsewhere as it is not too difficult to serve food up hot. It was luke warm at best and so not a good experience; a lesson learned.
Friday 14th September (Day 16)
Today we leave this pleasant site for Camping Dalmatia at Tisno a four hour drive. We were the first to leave and followed the satnav. I was a bit surprised to find it took us a pretty route over the mountains but assumed it was then going to rejoin the coast road, the D8. Well it didn't and despite 'no toll roads' being selected it took us onto a toll motorway! Something is amis with the mapping system. We played with the options while driving on this road and found that we had to travel about 40 miles before we came off to get back to the D8. Fortunately the toll was quite cheap. We then had to drive over the mountains again to get to the sea and the D8. In this instance it was a great drive over the mountains and very different from the first ones. The first were lush trees and gorges the second quite stark barren mountains (still with gorges). Having gained the coast road we had a slowish drive with more great scenery. That is, until the satnav did it again and took us on the toll motorway. We were off in less than a pounds worth of toll and regained the D8 without issue. We stopped overlooking a marina / sea for a quick lunch and eventually arrived within a few minutes of the others at Camping Dalmatia. What a let down, although we had been spoilt at the previous stop. A quick consult of the camping apps and we were off to Camping Jazera about 5km away. Here we set up, unsure how long we would stay. A big fry up for all of us and then a chat until quite an early night
Saturday 15th September (Day 17)
Another day in paradise! A slow start with a croissant for breakfast (they have various fillings if you are not careful). I asked what the various croissants were and one was 'nothing' (meaning 'plain') so I asked for four 'nothings'. Great hilarity when I was given an empty bag! Having then been given four croissants - "24 Kuna" was the ask. No nothing I said! Another laugh. Ha ha. (Two Ronnies eat your heart out!) After breakfast Chris, Resa, Eric and I went for a cycle ride of about 9 miles in total around the coast through Tisno to Jazera the town. This town proved to be about one mile across from where we started but the coastal route was preferable . We discovered how close we were to the camp site having ridden up to a small church on the hill and looking down almost at our motorhomes. A stop for a coffee and then the return journey where we stopped for some groceries and found an interesting sign outside the shop (see below). Lunch was followed by a swim in the gently sloping warm sea. Then Chris, Resa, Eric and I went for another cycle ride in the opposite direction to this mornings. About three to four miles we entered a small village and cycled through narrow alleys and came out by a bar that was like something out of 'Shirley Valentine'; a rustic bar by the sea with a shack for the bar itself and views to die for over the sea. Well a beer or two had to be had! We then cycled back for dinner, making a total cycle of around 16 miles, before a walk into Tisno in the evening to see if it was anymore attractive than daytime ('no'). A beer was drunk in compensation before returning to the Motorhome and bed.
Sunday 16th September (Day 18)
So off towards Dubrovnik. The target was a camp site at Podaca, Autocamp Uvala Borova. This is a site just short of the ferry to get around Bosnia, as we are not insured for this country. The campsite also offered options of trips to Dubrovnik. The drive was unbelievable. Croatia really is as good as the Italian Amalfi Coast but hugely longer and, unlike the Amalfi coast, motorhomes can drive along it. Photos do not show the magic of the scenery to any degree. Stunning mountains, emerald seas, twisting roads a pure delight at every turn. Part way I had a 'moment', probably due to the 30+degree heat. I went all light headed with the feeling of sickness and we had to stop for a few minutes to allow mw to either recover or Chris to drive. All was well very quickly and we set off again. We arrived at the site and quite quickly were settled and in the sea to cool off. A beer and then dinner followed. We then investigated the options / costs of a hire car, a taxi, the local bus service or driving to Dubrovnik in the motorhomes and the last option won out as it meant if one day was not enough to see what we wanted we could easily go in to Dubrovnik again. It was the cheapest option but not significantly more expensive really than the other options but they certainly would not give us a full day there.
Monday 17th September (Day 19)
Today we left promptly for the ferry from Ploce (Plochay) to Trpanj, which is on the Peljesac Peninsula,. This route is the only driving option available to us because the road to Dubrovnik goes through a 20 mile corridor of Bosnia which, as previously stated, we are not insured for. The alternative, which we took, was the ferry at around forty pounds for a motorhome and two passengers one way. We caught the 10.15am, and an hour later were disembarking. We then had a typical two hour drive along scenic roads to Dubrovnik. Actually the camp site was about 15km past it. Photos and descriptions really really do not do any justice to the views along too road. Mountains, twisty roads, and islands with the sea of so many hues of blue / green, just unbelievable. We stopped at a place called Ston which had a castle at the top of the hill and a two mile castellated wall around it. It was too hot to contemplate 'walking the walls' although on the 23rd of September there was a race along them. We had lunch and then moved off to Camping Kate ay Mlini. We arrived and found the place a bit well, busy. Eventually we found three places to 'shoe horn' into. The rest of the evening was spent chatting and having a meal.
Tuesday 18th September (Day 20)
We were up prompt and were down by the harbour before 9.00am for the local ferry to Dubrovnik. A pleasant 25 minutes ride along the coast. We arrived at the harbour right by the old town. Most of Dubrovnik was destroyed in the 1991-95 war but has since been rebuilt faithfully true to the original. A walk along the main street to the tourist office and then we paid an arm and a leg to walk the 2km wall around the old town. It was quite a task in the 30+ degree heat up and down steps but we were rewarded with great views. It took a couple of hours and then we found a small restaurant for a snack (£80 for three pizzas ands six beers). We then chose to stroll around the small side streets until we decided to take the cable car up the mountain overlooking the city. Great views over the sea, coastline and mountains. Back down and the bus stop was right outside the cable car entrance. Tickets bought and the bus arrived in just ten minutes. "Can you let us know when we are near Camping Kate please?" The driver was asked. "No" was the reply. Well thank you helpful driver! Anyway we made it back. Washing on and dry in minutes so now all clothes are clean.
.
Wednesday 19th September (Day 21)
Well today was to be a lazy day, according to Eric's proclamation yesterday. We got him to change his mind as the campsite had a walk down to the beach that Randolph Feines would have found challenging. So after a shower, breakfast and sorting waste etc we paid and were off. First stop was 'good ol' Lidl for a mega shop. This was followed by a diesel fill. Our target was a Camping Lavanda at Orebic (Ora-bitch) out near Trpanj. This is at the end of the peninsula and near to where we need to catch a ferry back to Ploce. We left before the others as convoys are not my scene; you travel at the speed of the slowest and traffic builds up behind, which is annoying for nearly all. The whole drive was a feast for the eyes the sun sparking on the many hues of sea, soaring mountains. The drive along the Peljesac peninsula was a long steady climb with plenty of tight bends. Part way along we saw a memorial so stopped to look at it. Unusually it was not related to the 1991-95 war but WWII. Off we went after a short stop and arrived at the campsite to find only four places vacant. We contacted the others who were still 40km away. We convinced the receptionist to allow us to reserve two places in addition to ours. Just as well as more people rocked up soon after. The weather was touching 30 degrees so we stayed in the shade of the awning having lunch and then strolled down to the sea for a refreshing swim. This walk was still down around 100 steps but not that much of a challenge. The sea was the warmest yet and, as this about the furthest south we have been, that should have been expected. So the afternoon was swim, snorkel, laze in sun and repeat. This is a great little site that only opened last year. The toilet, shower, washing facilities are exemplary and even the washing machines and dryers are free. A great little find. After a BBQ evening meal we sat and played Uno until bedtime.