Tuesday 14th February (Day 9)
After the usual start. Breakfast shower etc - we were off by just after 9.00am. Our first stop was only about 35 minutes drive at a place where the Moeraki Stones are. These are round stones that are millions of years old - perfectly spherical on the beach. They were formed by a volcano and then they 'sank' into softer rock which was eroded by the sea and so they became exposed and are now ten to thirty metres from the cliff face. (The Maoris belief they are food baskets washed up from the gods.) Then it was an hours drive to Dunedin (the Scottish bluestone city of the South Island). On the way we took two 'scenic route' detours which took us along the coast road and offered great views. At the main lookout point where we stopped the two views were very different; north - bright sunshine; south - dark clouds. Guess which was we were travelling! However, by the time we reached Dunedin the weather was warm and sunny. We started by settling in at the camp site, Aaron Lodge Motel and Camp Site - quite a nasty shook as the website showed $36 a night (about £22) but in tiny writing that was for one person - a second was an extra $17 or £10. This was 50% more than the dearest stop to date - although I should state that it is a very nice site. Anyway we are here now so lunch. Next a short bus ride into Dunedin City centre. Here we walked around the sights; St Pauls Cathedral; nice stained glass windows but otherwise bland: First Church (Presbyterian); better despite areas cordoned off for some reason. The first Reverend of this church was the nephew of Robert (Robbie) Burns: Then the Chinese Garden; very Chinese (!) good without being great: The Otago Settlers Museum; a great free museum covering all aspects from the Maoris arrival on the island to European arrivals and then through the ages to the 1960's. Here we saw toys and domestic items from our youth which made us feel old. Then to Dunedin Railway Station; this is a gem and one of the most impressive buildings, both inside and out. Next was a short walk back into the city centre, the Octagon, for a coffee. Here we started chatting to a man from the Cook Islands who lived in England. He grew up in Ilford (about five miles from where we live) but originally was born and lived in Purbeck Road, Hornchurch (about a mile from where we live). He was born in St George's Hospital, Hornchurch (now closed). What a small world! Especially as we met a verger in St Pauls Cathedral today who lived in Norwood, South London, where I grew up. After coffee we had some difficulty finding the bus stop to return home. Eventually we did but got off the bus a bit early and the bus driver almost chased us up the road to get us back on the bus. Back at the site we cooked the salmon given to us by an Australian two nights ago. It was river caught and I had to remove the pin bones before cooking it. It was worth the effort though as I have never tasted such a flavoursome, melt in the mouth piece of fish which, for a predominant meat eater, is high praise.
Wednesday 15th February (Day 10)
Today was a more prompt start. Just after 8.45am saw us parked up in the railway car park and paying $5 for the days parking. The weather was, while not cold, could not be classed as warm, so long trousers were the order of the day. (By early pm it was around 22 degrees though and my decision looked quite poor.) We strolled along to the railway station to purchase two tickets for the Taieri Gorge Train. This is a 58km journey to Pukerangi (and then back) along a gorge that cannot be reached by road. The carriages were all old but comfortable. Along the route are bridges, culverts and tunnels all hand dug and took livestock, feed, food and produce up and down to the settlers and Dunedin. Along the way are stations and halts with names such a Wingatui, Deep Stream and Christmas Creek. Wingatui got its name when an early farmer shot and winged a tui bird - hence the name - well that's one explanation. The latter, Christmas Creek, was named when on Christmas Day in 1883 a miner discovered gold in the creek and many other made their way to the location to make their fortune. It was a lovely journey lasting four hours. On the train we were talking to an Australian woman from Queensland who had a sister living in ... Hornchurch, things just seem to reinforce how small the world is? Back at the motorhome we snacked and then drove out onto the Otago Peninsula which afforded good views of the bays around Dunedin. We then left Dunedin on way to the next major stop Te Anau, which we were not going to make today. We eventually stopped at a town called Balaclutha, at quite the nicest motorhome stop to date. A quick shop for a few essentials before we settled in and found that our neighbours were from Burgess Hill in Surrey. A curry, drink and chat followed until around 10.30pm when we all turned in.
Thursday 16th February (Day 11)
Woke today to my birthday - 21 again - well for the third time. My present was a fried breakfast and damn good it was too. This was a bit later than 'normal' so it was not until about 10.00am we made our way to our next destination. The sun today was doing its level best to raise the temperature into the high teens. A lovely scenic drive to Te Anau where we were stopping for the night. On our arrival we first filled up with diesel, as for the next 150+ miles there was no petrol station, Then we sought out the tourist information to arrange a cruise on the Milford Sound (a 'must do'). Te Anau, as a town, was fairly uninteresting, apart from being situated on the largest lake on the South Island, which was surround by forests and mountains. Lunch was taken overlooking this lake but we then decided not to remain here. Having booked a boat for tomorrow we drove out towards Milford Sound. We stopped on route at 'Mirror Lake' and either this was a joke name or the breeze caused the effect to not work. Next was a convenience stop at the last public flushing loo at ........ Knobs Flat! After this a short drive to Cascade Creek which is a Department of Conservation site. It is a site with limited facilities and the price reflects this. We parked up and went for a walk on a circular loop. It was the 'moss / green' walk. A lovely walk through the trees where the ground vegetation was ferns and flax and all sorts of moss. The trees were mainly Red Beech and over 350 years old. It passed the lake and returned us 'home' after about an hour. Back at the motorhome we sat in the sun expecting it to 'disappear' behind the mountain but, being so close to the South Pole it was still shining three hours later. My birthday tea was steak and again it was really good. Prior to this meal, and indeed after, we were entertained by vehicle after vehicle driving by us, finding nowhere to stop, turning around and trying elsewhere, the site was really full. The one downside is that this is the first time we needed hot water from the campervan and we could not make it work. Add to this the fact that it is Thursday, and the earliest we will get a phone signal is Saturday when we drive out of this area, it is fair to say that we are not best pleased. Even at gone 8.00pm people are arriving and trying to find a spot to squeeze into. It is fortunate we got there early and took pole position !
Friday 17th February (Day 12)
Well another good nights kip, despite a few of the surrounding people moving off early. We had a cup of tea (in bed) and discussed the order of the events for the day as it was quite chilly. We decided to move without breakfast to warm the motorhome up and also to ensure we got parked at Milford Sound. Chris even just sat in the front seat with her dressing gown on! It was a lovely 60 minute drive. At one point there was a 1300m tunnel which was alternate working. As we approached the lights went red and a timer counted down for our green light - 7 minutes. Once it went green though, it was all down hill in the tunnel, the descent continued and when we exited we had great views of the mountains, valleys, waterfalls and water. Eventually we arrived in Milford Sound and just managed to park in the park and ride overspill car park. Here we had breakfast, washed and dressed, well one of us needed to. Then a twenty minute walk to the harbour (we never saw the park and ride bus all day) we were early but happy to watch the to and fro of the boats and people until 12.15pm when we boarded the 'Go Orange' boat. There was lots of room to move about as they do not fill to capacity even if there was enough customers, which was nice. Then a two hour jaunt around the Sound. A few facts; It is mainly over 200m deep with a large stretch around 330m; at the widest it is 3km; Capt Cook sailed passed without even knowing it was there; a Welshman discovered it and named it Milford Haven after his home town (is Milford Haven that old?). As all the other inlets / fiords around were called 'Sounds' and a New Zealander did not think it looked a bit like Milford Haven so 'Haven' was changed to 'Sound'. The surrounding mountain have tree slides quite frequently. As the sides are steep and top soil is washed off with any rain. The trees that grow do so by one or two 'gripping' the rocks by growing their roots into the cracks the rest of the trees interlock their roots with each other and also the trees gripping the rocks. Then due to age or weather conditions the trees that were locked to the rock break away and a hundred or thousand trees slide into the water. Part way through the cruise we had fish and chips served, which was exceptionally good and welcome. Along the way we saw Barracuda fish jumping out of the water, fur seals and many different birds. At one point we went bow in in to a waterfall. It is allegedly three time higher than Niagra Falls but with the mountains all around it, all of which were several thousand metres high, the waterfall looked quite insignificant, but it got us all wet. Back on dry land we walked back to the MH and drove along the only road back towards Te Anau. We tried two places to stop for the night but they didn't appeal to us and we ended up a lovely small stopover at Deers Flat, again a Department of Conservation site. We set up 20m from the river / creek which was fast flowing and fairly cold. We then just basked in the sunshine. We have previously moaned about the weather since arriving but it appears we have in fact been lucky as the South Island has only has 21 days sunshine since the end of October and Milton Sound only seven days without rain this year. When the sun disappeared behind the mountain we cooked dinner and then, mainly just looked at the fabulous views with am occasional glass of NZ Shiraz........
Saturday 18th February (Day 13)
Another good kip. We woke to glorious sunshine and fairly warm temperature but with the promise of much better to come. We dressed and drove about fifteen miles just to warm the van up a bit and the stopped for breakfast. Then it was a drive just short of three hours to Queenstown. It was a great drive, especially the last part alongside the lake that Queenstown is situated on Lake Wakatipu. We used an app called CamperMate to find a camp site that is not in any brochures we have (and we have a lot). It was just 5 minutes from the town centre and the closest to it, called Creeksyde Queenstown Holiday Park and Motel. We then showered - much needed - and had a quick lunch as we had arrived at midday. I also booked a Jet Boat ride for 1.00pm. We made it with time to spare. What a great ride. 80 - 90 kph in three inches of water and just a small distance between trees, bridge supports and rocks. Also pulling fast 360 degree spins. It was an adrenalin filled hour. The boats sucks in 800 litres of water a second from underneath to jet it out through smaller holes at the back. We then walked the town (after booking an event for tomorrow). A walk to get the general geography of the town which included the gardens. An interesting 'sport' is played here. You pay $3-5 for a frisbee each and then play 'Golf'. They have start posts and finish posts. The latter are 'cups' surrounded by chains so if your frisbee hits it in falls into the cup (hole). They are 70-80m from start to cup and lowest number of throws win. After watching this for a while we strolled back to the MH as some washing was needed to be done and dinner cooked. Just for a bit of entertainment a MH arrived on a flat bed lorry, they rolled it off into its space for the night but it didn't stop in time and took the electric power post out. Anyway after eating we decided to return into Queenstown as during the day it was quite lively and 'buzzy' and we thought it would continue into the evening. We walked around the streets and lake area and were not disappointed. It was lively and friendly and we had a good time, finishing with a drink in Pog Mahone's Irish Bar - a Guinness what else. Around midnight it was time to prepare for tomorrow.
Sunday 19th February (Day 14)
Well today's the day! The condemned man (and woman) ate a hearty breakfast, well ok Weet-Bix. Then after a shower we walked into town to register at the Tandem Sky-diving shop. We filled the obligatory 'if you die don't blame us' form and then changed our mind; we wanted to do the 15,000ft sky dive not the 9,000 or 12,000. That is just short of three miles high and some oxygen is required before the jump. We were driven to the airfield / landing zone where we got kitted up in jumpsuit and harness; then hat, goggles and oxygen mask. We decided against gloves as it was a lovely sunny day with just a few white puffy clouds and the Jump Masters told us we shouldn't need them. An individual briefing from each of our Jump Masters and then it was all aboard the little plane and we were off. A bumpy take off on the grass runway was followed by a long slow climb as the turbo plane struggles in the higher altitude, especially with the numbers on board. Eventually, after stunning views of the Remarkables (a mountain range), Queenstown and the Lake plus much much more, we levelled off and the door opened to a howling wind. Slowly two by two - like Noah's Ark in reverse - we left the aeroplane to plunge into nothing. A few spins and then settle down into the free fall position, arms out, legs together for me as the Jump Master did the full star fish position and enjoy the ride. Within five seconds maximum speed was reached of 200kph (125mph). The Jump Master put a few twists and turns to make it interesting. The ground did not appear to be rushing up towards us and there was plenty of time to enjoy the view and point out some landmarks. After just about a minute the parachute was deployed and the wind noise stopped almost immediately and an eyrie silence took over. It took eight more minutes for the descent. Both Chris and I were amazed at what an awesome experience it was and, other than needing to clear our ears of pressure, both wanted to go again. Then it was the drive back to town. Out first thought then was lunch. One of the 'must go to' places in Queenstown is Fergy's to get a 'Fergy Burger'. The buns for the burger are made next door in the bakery owned by 'Fergy' and must never be more than two hours old since baked. The queue was quite short about ten minutes but then a twenty-five minute wait for it to be cooked. It was worth the wait though. Then back to the MH with a few shopping items before returning to 'soak up' the town and also collect the photos and video of Chris' skydive - we only filmed her. A Fergy ice-cream then a further walk and then back for rest before this evening. Well about 7.00pm Chris says there is a nice walk to a lookout point over Lake Wakatipu and Queenstown. Sounds like a good idea; so off we go in the relative cool of the evening. Well is was 50+ minutes of uphill, the majority of it being at least 1:3. We had no water and were boiling and sweating like the winner of the 1000 Guineas. Eventually we arrived at the top and, I must concede, the view was pretty good. A rest for ten to fifteen minutes before the return journey. While down hill might be thought easier very soon the old knees were giving up and the toes being pushed into the front of the shoe were complaining also. We got back and had to have a shower to freshen up and then went into town for the last time. The Pig & Whistle had a live group who were mainly playing Led Zeppelin tracks and were utterly brilliant. Bed around midnight. A great busy, different, day and one we will surely not forget.
