Tuesday 18th October (Day 43)
A grey start and chilly - long trousers! After breakfast we opted to leave, as Millau didn't really grab us yesterday and in the overcast weather was less likely to today. Getting in to the aire last night was an issue with a broken machine. How would we fare getting out? A German van took 20 minutes trying to get out. We stopped behind them and as we did the barrier opened and we 'escaped' following close behind them. We started our journey by driving back south to join the motorway to go over the Millau Viaduct. An unbelievable bridge. Designed by a Frenchman, Michel Virogeux and our own Norman Foster. It is the 17th highest deck in the world, 270m above ground and 2.46Km long. It is, for a bridge, well quite pretty, with great views even though we were above the clouds for some part of the journey. It was €11.60 well spent. We drove until lunchtime, having stopped for diesel and a bit of food shopping and then continued on to an Aire on a river at Saint Pourcain sur-Sioule. Before arriving we skirted Clemont-Ferrand and saw many of the extinct volcanos as to the south-west of this city is a large national park with dozens of extinct volcanos. It is a place to return to in better weather. In addition to the toll free motorway, which can be boring, offer nice views of the countryside. It is probably an age thing but I do appreciate more than I did the colours of the countryside. Trees with leaves of every shade; green from lime to dark green; Yellow through orange to a bright red, and then their different shapes all mixed together made it really stunning. By 4.00pm we parked up at the Aire, I have no idea who St Pourcain was as the church have so many saints it is baffling. Anyway, a walk around the town was pleasant but not overly inspiring. Back at the aire, which was very nice, we sat in the sunshine watching kingfishers flit and swoop over the river. As the sun disappeared so dinner followed and then plans for tomorrow. We also booked the ferry for the 22nd from Dunkirk the wonder of the Internet.
Wednesday 19th October (Day 44)
Our next stop is about 4 hours drive away so no real rush to leave. We left about 10.00am and arrived at 1.00pm, from that you can guess it was a nice easy drive. As we get further north the colours of the trees intensified and also showed signs of starting to lose their leaves - autumn is definitely here. We stopped by a canal with a small port at a place called Rogny Les Sept Ecluses (Rogny the seven locks). We had lunch then off to explore the town. The main dissapointment was that the bakers are all shut on Wednesdays, so no bread to go with our curry. We walked up to the church which was locked. We could have found a key to get in but didn't bother. We then saw the seven locks so walked up them. These are a National Monument. They were built during the reign of Henry IV in 1604. 12,000 workers built them and by 1642 they were in use every day for 245 years. It was part of the river / canal system that joined the Mediterranean Sea to the English Channel (or La Manche as they put it). Eventually another canal with much bigger locks was built around the hill. We noticed some pink arrows on the road and followed them. They looped around the town twice, once to the north and then to the south so we had a nice long walk though the town, along the canal and river and through the countryside. (We think this is the route for a race but are not too certain.) Upon getting back we found we had the company of a second MH - there are only four spaces and it is quite out of the way. To our surprise they were English and had the exact same make and model motorhome as us; what odds I wonder.
Thursday 20th October (Day 45)
A grey start but with a hint of blue and promise of something better. Still not shorts weather. However, the bread shop run left us wanting as there were no 'pain au raisin' - a disaster. The journey today is about four to five hours. I have no real idea of the route that the satnav took us but arrive we did. Years ago, with Chris map reading, we managed to get to places and, seemingly, in a less complicated manner but we did have many many maps. So the satnav has made things so much easier and less stressful (for the map reader). We stopped partway for a few essentials for lunch and then, after a sticky bit of traffic, decided to get to the destination before eating. When in Spain and South of France we would pass young 'ladies' sitting on plastic chairs in the middle of nowhere hoping for some business; this has always been the case. However, Chris noticed a 'new (at least to us) phenomenon. We call it 'white van (wo)man'; white vans parked partially in tracks into woodlands with similar young ladies sitting in hoping for some business. Anyway, arriving just before 2.00pm at an Aire at Coucy-le-Chateau-Auffrique (a bit of a mouthful). A lovely Aire with five individual level bays surrounded by colourful bushes. €5 for 24 hours parking, electricity, water, grey and black waste disposal and toilets. UK councils take note the town MAKES MONEY FROM THIS AIRE. The view was upwards to a ruined castle and the town. After lunch we walked up to the town and around the castle - which in the 12th century was one of the largest in Europe. Goats came to greet us from the battlements. Into town and the free museum was of some interest. We decided on a coffee but everywhere was closed. The bar for a two week holiday; the hotel until 5.00pm; and the creperie until 5.30pm. Nothing for it but a walk back the the MH to make our own coffee. The gods were smiling on us as, soon after we got back, the heavens opened. A quite evening reading, listening to music and a dvd. Tomorrow is our last night and we plan to stop a bit short of Dunkirk.
Friday 21st October (Day 46)
A bright slow start - again no 'pain au raisin' in the patisserie!. After breakfast we tried to change our ferry for tomorrow to today but the Internet was playing up. 10.00am saw us off for a three plus hour drive to tonight's stop at Bergues, about 10 miles from Dunkirk. We stopped for a few items in a supermarket and tried the ferry reschedule again; no success.At Bergues we had a response from DFDS that the ferry we would like to get (6.00pm) was full. We could get he 4.00pm for a mere £97 extra.As the ferry tomorrow was only £57we though this a bad deal so home tomorrow it is. Having parked up we walked around Bergues which has a few features worth a look but is not as interesting as the previous two stops. Back to the MH before some heavy rain and an evening spent much like last night.
Saturday 22nd October (Day 47)
A prompt start for us because, although we are only 35 minutes from the port, you never know what may occur; better to arrive 60 minutes early than 5 minutes late. A good run and good security at the port; French soldiers (armed) and for the British, French security. Both were thorough. From Dover home was a good run except for the A127 - the last mile, which took 20 minutes due to the bridge works.
