Tuesday 11th October (Day 36)
If I was given to a bit of literary talent today I would start a bit Douglas Reaman-ish. "As I opened the door to the motorhome I saw the navy cutter forcing a passage through the steel grey waters as the wind whipped along and raised horses tails from the waves that buffeted the boat, while above gulls wheeled and turned in the overcast sky". As it is I will just say the van was rocked by the wind last night and this morning the wind almost took the damn door out of my hand. It is chilly. A prompt start and a drive to Saintes Maries-de-la-Mer, from Carro Port where we stopped last night. It was 30 kms drive up an almost straight road to Arles alongside the sea inlet and then 30 kms back down the other side. We parked with no problem as it was almost empty of MH's. A walk around the town followed and then a search for somewhere open for some bread for lunch as we left it late not remembering most shops shut around midday until 3.30pm. After lunch we decided on a cycle ride. We cycled through the town and out the other side into the wind for the first five miles averaging only about 8 mph. When we returned the average was almost 14 mph - the wind was that strong. a journey of about ten miles. I then flew the kite on the beach and had to stop after about 45 minutes as my hands, arms and shoulders ached fighting the wind, still enjoyed it though. A stir fry for dinner after the sun finally disappeared and then planning for the morning - depending on whether the rain came or not. Lastly, it was a game or two of cards before bed.
Wednesday 12th October (Day 37)
Well we had a slow start as we were off into town to watch the bull run. We sorted out the water etc first as we were going to leave directly afterwards. 11.30am saw us standing waiting. The large crowd murmured in excitement (or the couple of dozen people stood and chatted); the Police Municipal car (a powerful Duster) drove up and down with blue and amber lights flashing; nothing happened until ....... about 11.45am when six riders on horses shepherded four bulls along the road right by where we were standing. They were gone in less than a minute. I was quite under-whelmed. We walked back to the MH wondering why we wasted our time. Off we went on a four hour drive to Leucate Village Aire with a stop halfway for diesel, lunch and an Intermarché shop. We eventually arrived just before 5.00pm and parked overlooking the water which, while pleasant, would have been much better had here been some blue skies; warmth and no wind. By around 6.30pm it had started to rain and this just got heavier and more persistent. This is the rain forecast two days ago (for yesterday) by our soothsayer Eric. So he eventually was correct. Both he and our Muse agree that tomorrow has a high chance of rain also, so the plan tomorrow allows for a museum visit should it come to pass and, well, a museum visit should it not. Figueras in Spain is the first stop for the Salvador Dali museum and then a stop near Roses for the night. We shall see.
Thursday 13th October (Day 38)
Well what a night. The rain rained like rain rarely rains and the wind rocked the MH for most of the night. On the plus side; this was the first real test that the fixing of the leak has had and all was well. On the con side; the window that we knew leaked under some conditions (but forgot) leaked. Some seating got a bit damp but all in all no real problem. Just before we left, Eric discovered that the rear bulb that he fixed wasn't working and more to the point all the rear offside lights were not working. As it was raining lights are a 'must'. So we left them for Figueras while they went and found a motor mechanic. We had a good run and parked in a supermarket less than a mile from the centre, where we sat and had lunch. We strolled into town and queued and paid to go into the Salvador Dali Museum. We have been before but it was around fifteen plus years ago, and with Matthew. We paid our money (€28) and entered into the world of the three 'W's' - Women, Weird Things and Willies. To sum up a great artist like that, I am sure, is an affront to many art critics and art lovers. However, while he was a great artist, he also did some really naff things (in my view) and did draw and paint and sculpt lots of the three 'W's'. To show my philistine art credentials there were two ladies looking at a picture and discussing "you can see and almost feel the muscles of the combatants"; to me is was some red and cream splodges. After a couple of hours we left and went to part two - the jewellery. This was spectacular. Finally, we left and sought out somewhere for a coffee.Suitably refreshed we decided to walk around the city a bit. However, the weather gods had different ideas. It was becoming very black and starting to spit. We decided cowardice was the way forward and scurried back to the MH. We then drove to the overnight stop, with a brief stop at a huge drinks warehouse as we had not been able to get Chris any Southern Comfort for over two weeks! On way to our stop the rain became torrential and the wind tried to boss us around. We pulled up in an uninspiring place but, hey ho, it is free for the night and it is not as if we will be able to stroll around as thunderstorms are predicted. Resa and Eric arrived and had further trouble as their step would not work. Resa cannot get in the MH without the step so they may decide to return to the UK. We await their decision. We watched a couple of episodes of Downton Abbey (Series 2), the rain was so hard we could barely hear it with the volume turned almost to max. The rain was unbelievable, even more than last night with sheet lightening as an add on. We sat for ages watching the silhouette of the trees against the silver of the sky. It was magic and took our attention for quite a while. Who know what tomorrow will bring or the decisions to be made. We always said that rain on the roof of a tent or caravan / motorhome was great to hear but the intensity of this weather is making us reconsider that viewpoint.
Friday 14th October (Day 39)
Having had a reasonable sleep we awoke to ...... quite a bright day. However, there was some bad news. Resa and Eric, with whom we had shared the adventure of the last 38 days, were to return to Blighty to have their step fixed. They were not happy bunnies as they had originally decided to stay another six or so weeks in Spain. We said our goodbyes and watched them drive off into the distance. We looked at the weather forecast and assessed our options and a drive of about 50 minutes to Camping Les Medes, an ACSI site, at Torroella de Montgri was agreed. On route we encountered some horrendous rain but being of hardy stuff we continued. We arrived and found parts of the site very, well damp. We selected a pitch and off we went. Several attempts later we decided that the narrow roads and trees made this pitch inaccessible to us. We strolled around again and selected another. Still a squeeze but we made it. Parking took us longer than the journey here. By which time the shop shut so no bread for lunch, although we had a nice lunch and it was eaten in sunshine - it was hot as well. In the afternoon we cycled into the local town, L'Estartit. It was clear that last nights weather had taken its toll. Cycle paths flooded; roads flooded; footpaths flooded; road covered in sand and debris. We went to the harbour and watched the large waves crashing over the harbour wall. Our only option was a beer at a bar. )We had been informed that it was law that tapas was served with beer but this proved be incorrect.) We people watched for an hour or so and then returned to the site to have a swim in the indoor pool. Here we met an English lady (from Somerset) whose van we went to for a coffee and a chat. While chatting the rain started followed by thunder and after an hour or so we walked back to the MH. Instead of cooking we went to the site restaurant. The choice was very limited but excellent food -- three courses all for €11 a person. My only criticism was a mixed grill with four meats and no chips (!) just half a jacket potato. Indeed no chips on the menu at all.! A watch of Downton Abbey Christmas Special (series 2) followed (we know how to live) then bed.
Saturday 15th October (Day 40)
A nice bright start to the day - blue skies and warmth Which eventually reached 23 degrees. We opted for a cycle ride after breakfast and so it was. Off from the site to Torroella de Montgri, Gualta, Fontanilles, Palau-sator (a coffee), then on to Pals. This is a 9th Century and earlier hill top town. A great place to stroll around. The only odd thing was the church. It was fairly plain but if you wanted to light a candle to anyone (or anything) you had to purchase it from a machine similar to a coke-cola machine never seen the like. After a stroll for a while we had a beer and tapas before the return cycle (with a supermarket shop). The whole trip was nearly 27 miles. Then a rest of the legs and body in the sun and after it disappeared veal , egg and chips. (Yahay chips!) PLans for tomorrow were then being considered.
Sunday 16th October (Day 41)
Another nice day. After breakfast we cycled into L'Estartit and locked the bikes up. We then went for a walk into the hills that surround the town. The start was easy enough up a very steep road to some steps that led into 'the wild'. Then a very stoney path, only just discernible, to a headland which afforded great views. We then continued on down a very steep and loose stone path to a small bay. What goes down..... an extremely steep climb up the other side. I was beginning to feel that I needed ropes, spikes and belays. What goes up ......... a steep down to a second bay. By now it was about time for lunch so we sat on a large rock looking out to sea. Lovely. A discussion whether to retrace our steps or 'soldier on' took place. I lost the discussion and it was 'onward'. Even steeper up now. Mountain goats would have had second thoughts at the first part of the 'walk' but now they would have asked for danger money. Eventually, gaining the top for a third time the path became more, well, something that you could follow without searching for the little mans blues and white painted stripes on the odd rock to let you know you were not completely lost. Slowly the path became more certain and then a tarmac road for the last part. By the time we got to L'Estartit we were knackered. We sat with a beer for almost an hour getting the strength to cycle the mile and a half back to the site where we sat and rested for a bit longer.
A review of Camping Les Medes, L'Estartit. A friendly, family run site which is open all year. It belongs to ACSI so out of season is only €19. The electrics are only 6A so you need to be careful. Toilets and showers are great with very hot water. Outside pool, children's pool and heated indoor pool (not all year). NB you need to wear a swim hat. Children's playground, boules court, washing machine etc. There is a bar and restaurant but the restaurant has good food but limited menu. Small shop and fresh bread complete the faciltities. The pitch areas are good as are the access roads but both are compromised by trees, making access to some difficult if 7m or more. Finally to get a sunny pitch you should opt for an odd numbered pitch.
Monday 17th October (Day 42)
Today we have decided it is time to move..... homewards. The weather has been good for the weekend but appears to be 'going down hill' this week. After breakfast we were off. Our first stop was in Figueres at the supermarket we stopped at few days ago as the diesel was €0.97 a litre. (It is around €1.11 elsewhere.) Then a short hop to La Jonquera which is just before the French border. Two litres of scotch is about £15. Bombay Sapphire gin (1 litre) £15 and well everything's cheap (fillet steak £10 a kilo). Eventually, much lighter in the wallet, we were off to Millau. It took a bit longer than I expected so by about 4.30pm we pulled up to be confronted by a barrier entrance that would not allow us in. Much head scratching then a phone call to some operator in the country and eventually we were in. A stroll around the town, with a shop in a green grocers, when the heavens opened. Then we got lost! Quite unusual for me but we struggled to find the MH, although we did (obviously). A lovely cooked tea using some of the meat from La Jonquera and a settle down for the evening.
