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Trip 39 - France - Days 16 to 22

Wednesday 21st September (Day 16)

After breakfast we set off to the pre-planned destination in France on our way south hoping to get some better weather. Off along the motorway into Luxembourg where I ducked off to fill up with diesel (78p/litre).Then it was non-toll motorway almost all the way to Pont-a-Mousson. We set up looking over the river Moselle. It is the same Mosel river that we travelled down in Gemany but we are in France and here it has gained an extra 'le' at the end. This our 16th night on a river or canal. We sat in the warm sunshine having lunch before venturing into town. It is a tired town with many buildings in dire need of some tlc. Chris noticed a building she thought interesting and we strolled down a cul-de-sac to look at it. It was a warehouse / church / who knows what building, high, long and wide. None the wiser we started to leave when a Frenchman came up and we started to chat about it. It was last used around a hundred years ago for cavalry horses. He even opened it for us to see. Inside it looked even higher and bigger with an oak roof. It was very impressive, even more so if you avoided the pigeon poo! We then strolled along the river and made our way to the Abbaye des Premontres Norbertine Abbey. The Norbertine order started in the 12th Century but they only started to build the abbey in 1705. It had a chequered history and in 1944 was hit by a German shell causing damage and a fire. Even now they are still reparing it - and will be doing so for many years to come as there was not much evidence of any activity. It was well worth the €3 each. The most amazing bit was a huge chandelier weighing around 620Kg. Back to the MH to catch the last of the sun, and watch the swans and heron before dinner and a game or two (after planning tomorrow's leg south). A word of advice; if you come to the Lorraine area of France make sure you go to the tourist information and get a 'Pass Lorraine' ,one per Address. This is a free card that gets you reduced entry into hundreds of places over wide area. For example the abbey we visited, the reduction was 40%. The card is for life and is a great deal.

Thursday 22nd September (Day 17)

The river was covered in mist this morning giving everything a surreal air. On a more mundane level I walked into town to the bakers for croissants. Then the usual fill/ empty routine before we were off to our next stop. Langres. Our first stopover away not next to water. Three hours and we were parked up and trying to get level. Eric then found his battery was over 15v. We suggested he disconnected and indeed it was boiling. The batteries were knackered. They found a place to get new batteries about 50 miles away and so off they went. We stayed a while and had a walk around the town. The cathedral had a mosaic patterned roof which was novel. After an hour we left for ....... a riverside spot a couple of hours away. Well if it wasn't for roadworks and a weight restriction it would have been two hours but an extra 20 minutes was added. The town of Pontailler-Sur-Saone is a nice spot but crawling with gendarmes - cars, bikes, helicopters and personnel. Just an every day occurrence in a town near you apparently. Eventually Resa and Eric joined us and after a beer food was calling. Despite the fact we had both travelled more than usual today we agreed tomorrow to do the same to get through Lyon tomorrow. It involves us breaking the 'no more than three hours' rule but also the 'no tolls'. However the saving in time and distance actually make the toll option quite appealing.

PHOTOS hern . Mist, lift at Langres; Pontalier site; Gebdarnes

Friday 23rd September (Day 18)

A relatively cool night and a mist over the river to start. By 9.30pm we were off. The plan was to use the toll route to get to the next stop. On we went. Resa then contaced us to inform us it was €38 euros to Lyon. We abandoned the peage motorway saving over half that amount and continued the 'pretty route' Slower but better on the pocket. We did, however, use the Periphique around Lyon as the main route through was almost stationary - a good €3 spent. It was a good route and we arrived at Boulieu Les Annonay just in time for a late lunch (2.00pm). We then strolled around the medieval town which, while pleasant, had been a bit overhyped. There was a festival this weekend and we attended the first part but it was, unsurprisingly in French and spoken very fast so we caught little of what was going on so we left to have our dinner. At 8.00pm we walked across the field to a free show of tumbling. Two men one who tumbled put on a show that was brilliant. summersaulting over wood, axe throwing diving through small gaps even falling off the top of a road digger shovel while, apparently, drinking wine and getting more drunk. He even went and had a wee up the back wall. An hours clever,funny and original entertainment. We have set tomorrow's location and will have a prompt start.

Saturday 24th September (Day 19)

Well today we were off by 9.00am! No one wet the bed we just decided an earlier start was a good idea. A quick stop for a few essentials at a supermarket and then off to Orange - or a camp site just outside it (Camp Manon). We had a good run except for one 'driver error'. At one roundabout I turned off one road too late. This put me on a road with the other side completley shut due to roadworks and with Mrs Satnav telling me to turn around! Eventually she got the idea I wasn't going to so she got me to turn right. Unfortunately measurements are not Mrs Satnav's strong point and the bridge was 2.9m high (we are 3.05m). We then had to reverse up the single carriage road causing a bit of chaos before going off again along the 'wrong' road. Well she eventually sorted it out and we still made good time to Camping Monan, 2.2km outside Orange. A very narrow entry turn but a lovely site. Facilties were 'tired' but ok. Pool good. Lunch and a rest before a busy day sitting / swimming in / around pool. I was fascinated at the pool as when you sat with your legs or arms in the pool bubbles appeared and settled on you. You could then write letters on your legs as touching your legs caused the bubbles to float to the surface. I have no idea why this happened and it entertained me for ages. Back to the MH for a leisurely sit before dinner which was to be a joint effort with Resa and Eric.

Sunday 25th September (Day 20)

A day to visit Orange. So after breakfast we cycled into town, only about 1.75 miles. We locked our bikes up and went our different ways as Resa wanted to visit the Theatre Antique - a Roman Amphitheatre built at the beginning of the Christian Era! so I suppose around 0? We opted to walk up the hill above it and take photos of it from there (cheap skates?). While overlooking it, a group inside started to sing, and the sound was brilliant. We then continued upwards and saw the Gallo-Roman ruins plus a great view over the city and beyond. Descending we opted for a coffee and were joined by Resa and Eric after a while. It was then a zig-zag stroll around the town taking in the Hotel de Ville and Cathedral (Our Lady of Nazareth and All Saints) to name just two places. The cathedral was built over a hundred year period and it started being built in 1107. This city is full of history; William III of Orange lived here and in 1689 he was the King of England and the Dutch royal family are direct descendants of him. We then arrived at the Arc De Triomph a good replica of the Paris one, or the other way around as, I suspect, this was built first. While at the arch thirty or so vintage / classic cars passed by. Back towards town we sauntered and we found the cars parked up as the owners were off for a wine or three. The cars were stunning, most pre 1930. It was a two day tour of the Cotes de Rhone wine area (mainly) and many stops and wine is,apparently, consumed! Eventually we retuned to the site and lazed around. A visit to the pool to confirm the 'bubble effect' was still happening (See yesterday); it was. After a swim it was a short planning meeting for the next few days which, if it goes to plan will be Avignon, Les Baux deProvence and the St Tropez. After a great home cooked steak meal we walked into the city to see it at night. Most of the streets had lights strung along their length but we were disappointed as no one had put any money in the electric meter and they we not illuminated. A stroll back and then bed.

PHOTOS Amphitheatre; cathedral, Amphithreatre at night, classic cars

Monday 26th September (Day 21)

A prompt depart (away by 9.00am). A few items at the local Aldi and then a 50 minute trip to Avignon. A great ride to a park and ride which was to be our free stopover. However, on getting there we found 2.6m height barriers; it was like being back in the UK. Just along from here was a aire that we parked in, once we had negotiated the vagaries of the entry / exit machine. It was very temperamental to say the least having a touch screen that didn't register your touch and then did two or three times. We settled in and cycled into Avignon! only just over a mile. This is a big city surrounded completely by a fortress wall; about 6km around. It is very attractive and lively. We walked around the alleys with old buildings and would not have been too surprised if a cavailer or two came around the corner. (Well ok we would have been surprised along with all the other tourists but you get my drift.) Next was a visit to the Palais de Papes (Pope's Palace). It is a pleasant walk around the citadel like building which is very large and the history of the city is entwined with this building. Popes lived here; saints came here; people were murdered in their scores here and not by an invading army but their neighbours. It really was an interesting place. Next door is a cathedral with a gold angel on the top that can be seen for miles. Avignon also boasts the famous bridge; as in 'Sur le Pont D'Avignon' which now only goes halfway across the river. Visiotrs pay to walk out onto a bridge that goes nowhere! As in the nursery rhyme locals danced in pairs UNDER the bridge so it should be 'sous' nor 'sur' but I am sure many of you know that already. It was built in the 12th century by a shepherd (who had a dream that he should build it). It was the only bridge over the River Rhone between the Mediterranean and Lyon, whic is over a hundred miles. Several times it was washed away by floods. Eventually in 17th century it was abandoned and left. A bit more of a stroll around until we found a restaurant for lunch in the town centre which was very filling and good value. We explored the pedestrian shopping area before cycling around outside the city wall back to the bridge across to the island we were staying on. Back 'home' we sat and had a tea and a chat before it chilled down and we finally retreated inside. We all sat in Resa and Eric's van each supplying cheese/ bread / biscuits for tea as we were still quite full from the lunch. We then sat chatting about various things including some campsites and people we met while together around 20 years ago; yes we have been travelling together along time in each other's company. Bedtime loomed but over the road we found we were being 'treated' to drum and beat music and, while not overly intrusive, we can only hope their parents come to get them soon.

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