Tuesday 13th September (Day 8)
Another day of blue skies and sunshine. The temperature today will peak at 38 degrees. A real scorcher. After breakfast the four of us walked into town to the railway station to catch the train to Cochem about 6 miles along the river. We were in luck as there is only one train an hour and we had just ten minutes to wait. Once boarded the air conditioned, smooth, clean train, It took just seven minutes to get to our destination. Cochem is quite a large town and one worthy of a days wander. Our first stop was a quirky bar for a coffee. Before continuing around the streets. A lot of the buildings were half timbered and very picturesque; streets were narrow but still two way in many places which was interesting when a bus and Car, or even just two cars met. High above the town was the Reichsburg (a castle). It had quite a history. Originally built in 1000AD it was sized by a German emperor in 1151; in 1294 another German King pawned the castle to the Bishop of Trier and in 1689 it was totally destroyed by soldiers of Loius XIV of France. It lay in ruins for around 200 years until a Loius Ravenne, a businessman, rebuilt it like the original in just ten years. While outside it looked like the original inside it had 19th century furniture and fittings. For €6 each we had a guided tour of most of the building. To say it was impressive does not do it justice. Wood painted ceilings, Stone ceilings held up on huge wooden pillars, Titian paintings and the original furniture used by the family still there. In 1948 the family were forced to sell it to the Reich and now it belongs to the town. There was also oddities in there like the armour of a night who was seven foot tall - when the average height was around five foot. He must have looked very daunting to say the least. There were also 'frogs' well that what they looked like but the guide assured us that there were in fact lions with visors on - not overly convinced! After about an hour the tour was over and we walked slowly back into the town - very hungry and thirsty. So a restaurant in one of the little squares for schnitzel, chips and beer was to be had; and very nice it was too. A bit more of a stroll and a quick shop (Eric had run out of both Gin and tonic and we didn't want to see a grown man cry). Anyway this meant we missed the train by about three minutes. What to do for an hour? Well a shady seat on a hotel balcony and a beer of course. Then the train back and a cool off in the swimming pool which manages to be quite fresh and much cooler than the Moselle itself.
Wednesday 14th September (Day 9)
A prompt start for me as I first wanted to post the blog which last night would not upload. Success was quick to hand this morning though. Then, after food, we all packed up, filled up and emptied before an hours drive to Neef. First though some essential food shopping. It was then a slow drive though Cochem due to parked vehicles but soon things picked up. Part way we saw a pretty village on the opposite bank so we parked up and took a small ferry across. It was a charming village - Beilstein (with the obligatory castle that we had to walk up to)! The castle was built in 1268 and while has a 25m tall tower affording great views. It is a shadow of its former glory. Beilstein itself is, apparently, often used for filming and it was easy to see why. It was quite busy mid-September. It must be manic in August. We then set off again and took a detour for LPG for Eric but the pump was not working. Then the final run to the aire at Neef. It is a broad stretch of grass where you can park facing the river, arriving at about 2.00pm we were surprised to see it quite full. We secured a spot by the river though. Lunch was then beckoning and, as we had already had excercise in Beilstein we opted for a lazy afternoon. During this lazy period I took a stroll through Neef. This area of the Mosel has the steepest vines fields. Even the rest of the Mosel has toothed monorail tracks up between the vines that have wheelbarrow contraptions to put the grapes in. However, in this area a seat is also included and ropes are used as well to move between rows. The town of Neef, apart from a few bars and restaurants, was bereft of interest. How some of the bars made a, living is beyond me. Two or three chairs by a table down a back street. Anyway an hour was whiled away. Early in the evening Chris and I went for a cycle ride to Bremm just across the river. It may have been a bit bigger then Neef but not any more exciting. We did, however, help their economy with Chris having a beer and me a coke. Part way back I realised I had left the camera there. I cycled like a madman but not only was it still there but no-one had noticed it. A late dinner was had and the near full moon was almost what we ate by. A bit of planning for tomorrow was next with Eric stating we were 'rushing along a bit' (just over 40 miles of the Mosel travelled in seven days was hardly rushing, I thought.) A destination was decided for tomorrow it being about an hour away. We then played a short game of Yahtzee before deciding that the walk up the castle and asleep in the afternoon was tiring and bed was calling. Before we turned in we closed up the windows and pulled the blinds and sprayed insect killer as we were inundated with small black flying bugs. This meant a walk was needed to let them die and the smell of the spray to dissipate. So we strolled through Neef to see if it was any more vibrant or interesting. A few people were sat around drinking, all of who said 'hello' but otherwise not much change.
PHOTO Beilstein and ferry
Thursday 15th September (Day 10)
The plan today was a half hour drive to a new aire. We then were informed that some friends were to be at Klussenrath a bit further away. So off we went. Our first stop was an atm and then we followed the river all the way, ignoring the satnav lady. A great drive Along the Mosel, the river is so picturesque. A further stop at a supermarket and then we arrived at the aire. We sorted ourselves and then waited in the glorious sunshine for the others to arrive. Due to traffic and roadworks they did not arrive until nearly 6.30pm. As they got nearer so the clouds gathered and by the time they pulled up rain was threatening. In 24 hours the weather changed from sunny and 30+ degrees to 20+ and rain. We then chatted and cooked and chatted under awnings hiding from the rain until late and made plans for the next day. A late night.
Friday 16th September (Day 11)
A short 30 minutes drive back towards where we came from yesterday. An aire in Graach. So off we went in convoy at around 9.30am. A pleasant drive and then we pulled onto the site. Over 130 places but it was nearly full. There was, however, six places all near to one another - the gods were looking favourably upon us. We parked up and paid for three nights and found the village had a wine festival this weekend. A result. After lunch we walked into the main town Bernkastel-Ques about a mile and a half. It is a much bigger town than most we have been to to date and had plenty of shops, bars etc. Like all towns along the Mosel it is pretty with flowers, half timbered buildings etc etc etc. Chris and I strolled around while the rest went for a beer. We then strolled back to the MH for a tea. When all were back we had an early dinner to get to the wine festival's evening events early to get a seat. We just managed it for the ladies but the men stood. A band played and the wine queens were presented and around 8.00pm a group started who were really good. Much dancing and singing was had. Around 10.30pm a troop of dancers from a nearby town took over the dance floor to dance / mime / balance and give a presentation which was along the lines of Arabian Nights. It sounds a bit lame but was really extremely good. Just before midnight we trundled back as the last set by the band was German pop songs and not as good as the other sets which were all English.
Saturday 17th September (Day 12)
Today was forecast to be wet so imagine our surprise and delight to wake to bright sunshine. We missed a fair part of the morning not emerging much before 10.00am but it was gone 1.00am when we went to bed. The weather was mid 20's which was nice. For today's events there was a three way split. The girls (most) were to go into town shopping; the boys (most) were to stay on site doing..... well things; Chris and I decided upon a bike ride. We cycled into the town and over to the other bank and then continued away from the site. Eventually we stopped at a (very) tiny outside bar for a beer in a very small village. Then we started our return journey and crossed a different bridge into a town called Mulheim. Here we found a lovely hotel / restaurant and had a meal which was huge, lovely and cheap. After this a slow cycle back as we tried to shift some of the Weight we had surely put on with the meal. We arrived back having cycled 18 miles. By this time it was starting to cloud over, not just grey but quite black (Still warm). The threatened rain never came to fruition. Around 6.00pm we went up the the town for the evenings entertainment, without eating as we were still full from lunch. The Winzerkapelle Kinheim band were just getting set up. There then followed two hours of 'oompah / bier keller music, polkas, even 'roll out the barrel. (We were singing 'Roll out the barrel we've got the Bosch on the run' which may have been a tad un PC!) They were followed by a duo who were really good and dancing took place for us all. Like the previous night there was a dance group, this time cowboys and saloon girls. While not, to me at least, as good as last night they were still very very good. Some more dancing for us and then a walk back to the MH - in the rain. It was very light rain on the walk back but has now increased and is quite heavy.
Sunday 18th September (Day 13)
Well a lot of rain fell during the night but, while grey and overcast, no rain this morning. Nor did it rain today but in four days the temperature had dropped from 35 to 18. After a real big boys English breakfast we sat around for a while before venturing into Graach for a coffee and a look around. Graach was remarkable in its, well, quite ordinariness. We went into the festival area and had a really typical German, homemade, cake each which was to die for. The afternoon was a relaxation time with knitting and reading until dinner was cooked. Then it was a stroll back for the evenings entertainment. No disco or group this evening just a band. They were good with musicians from early teens to their seventies. This is the third night of the festival, one of many along the Mosel. People of all ages attended and all ages played in the bands. Drinking started, at least on Saturday and Sunday, in the morning. There was no police or other officials in attendance, no trouble, no vomit, just people singing, dancing, clapping, and swaying. Where oh where did England go wrong? On a personal note, apart from the great landscape and friendly people and the festival, I wonder why I am here. I find German wine a sweet, fruity 'nasty' and do not particulary like lager either!
Monday 19th September (Day 14)
A day for the parting of the ways. Resa, Eric, Chris and I were off towards Trier and then, probably, the south of France 'chasing the sun'. The others were going towards Koblenz and thence home by the weekend. So much hugging and such like to start the day. It had been a great weekend and, indeed, the Mosel so far. I do wish I liked either lager or German wine though As the choice becomes rather limiting. I am sure there are millions who like the wine but I am not one of them. All too sweet and the 'dry' wine too fruity. Anyway we then all filled up with water etc before going our separate ways. We first needed LPG and then a small shop before arriving at Neumagon-Dhron aire. We arrived and it was full. However, with a bit of negotiating we managed to have two places on the grassed area with no electrics which was not an issue. Lunch and then a stroll around the town which was an interesting time. Eventually we arrived back to cook tea before a planning meeting for tomorrow as Trier is out next major venue to visit. The evening finished with a game or two.
Tuesday 20th September (Day 15)
So we all had a great shower using the marina facilities. A really nice start. Then we left for Trier our last stop on the Mosel. We arrived at the aire and got settled and before lunch walked into the city. A stroll around, with visits to C&A, Woolworths and Tchibo, was the first part our city tour. We then went onto a restaurant for soup and coffee - great soup which set us up as it wasn't the warmest day, only around 19 degrees. We then started the 'tourist tour'. The Ponta Nigra - the world best preserved Roman city gate (2nd Century AD). Next the oldest Bishops church / cathedral / Dom in Germany, positively new as it is 4th Century. This building was very impressive with a board listing every Trier Bishop from 250AD to today. It also claimed, I think, to display the garment Christ wore when crucified. Apart from this the building itself was amazing - with great access to all parts and free of any charge (learn a lesson St Pauls you money grabbing people). After this we went to a basilica, an amphitheatre and a good general walk around. We left over the roman bridge having walked through what is probably the red light district. Table dancing, sex shops and the like. Back home and we sat and chatted until dinner time which, by now, was chilly enough to eat inside our vans. Our decision to go south for better weather has been vindicated today.